After posting my MCM Buffet, (which sold to a wonderful couple from the UK yesterday) I recieved an email asking me what type of roller is best for painiting furniture.
First off, I don’t often use rollers to restyle my furniture. A regular ol’ paint brush and my spray-gun are my go-to’s. But when I do roll… this is how I roll… (big smile)! I make sure to choose a roller that doesn’t leave any fuzzies – like those textured rollers do, or show ugly roller marks – like those cheap spongy rollers do!
The best roller for painting furniture is a High Density Foam Roller with a Rounded Edge. I look for brands that are used by contractors for cabinets, trim and doors. These rollers also indicate ‘fine/smooth’ finish on the package. These high density foam rollers won’t leave air bubbles or fuzzies in your painted furniture’s finish!
Here are 9 tips to help you get a smooth finish when using a roller:
1. Foam rollers come in 4″-6″ and choosing the correct size for your job is helpful.
2. Pre-load your foam roller with product before you start to paint. A fully loaded roller reduces the risk of uneven paint application which reduces roller marks and flashing. (Flashing is when paint is applied or dries unevenenly and the finish appears to have different sheens or textures once dry.)
3. Use a good quality paint that lays and evens out nicely. Don’t be afraid to thin the paint down with small amounts of water to make the paint flow and distribute smoothly.
4. Floetrol (for latex) or Penetrol (for oil) are two products that can also be added to your paint to slow down the dry time and allow the paint to lay nice and even for a smooth finish.
5. Leave a wet edge to roll into otherwise you may experience roller marks or flashing.
6. Use the weight of the roller and very light pressure to roll on your paint. If you apply too much pressure it will result in roller marks.
7. Roll in one direction so you get an even painted surface.
8. Don’t over work the paint. Roll a few times to distribute your paint and then let the paint level and do it’s thing.
9. High density foam paint rollers are reusable. To keep them in good shape so that you can use them over and over again, after painting, rinse with warm water and squeeze most of the paint out. Then wash with a mild soap and water and let dry.
Have any questions about painting furniture with a roller? Do you have any tips or paint methods you’d like to share? Chime in because I always love hearing from you!
Catch last weeks Q-T-T here – and if YOU have any ideas or tips you would like to share on the SI Quick-Tip-Tuesday-Series, feel free to send me an email.
Enjoy your day and happy painting!
Denise x
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Hi Denise,
Thanks for your amazing tips. I painted a wooden table using a high density roller and got flash marks. Is there anything I can do to repair this? I’d appreciate any advice you have.
Hi just came across your helpful article and was wondering if you could explain number five in your tips, Not quite understanding the tip below thank you
5. Leave a wet edge to roll into otherwise you may experience roller marks or flashing.
Hi Anna! Yes, the wet edge is the edge on the paint you JUST rolled. You want to use your roller and overlap that wet edge before it dries. Hope this is helpful.
1. Do you need a separate spray apparatus for your spray gun?
2. Do you top coat with your spray gun as well?
Hi Cindy! If you’re referring to a compressor, yes. My spray gun does require a compressor to spray. And yes to topcoating with my spray gun… its a flawless finish and I prefer spraying a topcoat over brushing one on. Hope this helps. 🙂
Hi Denise. Thankyou for this helpful information. I’m about to paint my old pine dresser. It’s not solid in parts and slick, so can only scuff lightly. As It’s slick and I think it could bleed, I’m doing your suggestion of using zinsser bin as a primer. You suggest in another post of using cheap disposable high density rollers. Ive located a few from my local hardware, but they have varying naps. Hoping you can guide me in the right direction. Looking forward to hearing from you. Cheers and thanks for your great informative blogs.
Hi Robyn! These foam rollers here will work really well with the BIN Shellac Based primer. They are for one use only. They do break down if you try using them 2x.
Thanks Denise for this tip.Since I only occasionally paint a piece of furniture for myself, I tend to use a good quality brush. 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
What brand do you usually prefer for the Foam rollers?
Hi Mary! Foam Pro and Dynamic are good brands.
Is a foam small roller good for using melamine paint we are painting or kitchen cuboards and find with the lint free rollers I still get the roller marks would there be less with the foam roller?
Melamine paint is very unforgiving and hard to apply finding too much paint in some areas and end up sanding and starting again very long process any suggestions??
Hi Cindy! I’ve never used a melamine paint but I find high-density rollers work amazingly to cut down on lap marks with all other types of paint. Floetrol is also a product that can be added to paint and it cuts down on lap/brush strokes by extending dry time. This gives the paint more time to “lay” nicely. You might want to double check if it can be added to melamine paint tho.
Hello Denise. Help Council please. Can I use Floetrol with Annie Sloan paint? I’m a beginner just trying to paint, this thick paint and I’m very difficult with it. but in my country (Russia) the other until there is no. I dilute it with water, but it does not help much, because I paint for a long time trying to do well, but… until there is no, not well)) that do you say?
Hi Olga! I’ve never tried (I use water to thin mine out and create longer work time) but I did find this Hometalk article for you. Hope it helps. And if you give it a go, I’d LOVE to hear how it works for you!
When you say role in One Direction, does that mean just forward and don’t pull the roller back towards you? I’m super new to this painting thing 🙂
Hi Deb! If you roll the length of the dresser (as an example), roll it forward – then bring it back following the same line. However, don’t roll the length of the dresser – then the width – then diagonal. Hope that makes sense. 🙂
I am painting 2 side tables that had a glossy finish. After sanding the top and priming it all of the scratches from sanding still show through. After the top coat and sealing it will the scratches go away?
Hi Dan! If starting with a low grit rough sandpaper, say 60 or 80 and then working your way up to a medium 120 or high grit finishing 220-400, there should be no visible scratch marks in the wood – regardless of finish. Paint and primer are more forgiving than stain, but if the scratches are deep scuffs, paint and topcoat may not cover them up. Sanding with a higher grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain should alleviate any scratch marks for you. 🙂
I agree you can get great results with foam rollers, as far as bubbles I’ve found a quick blast with a heat gun knocks them right out, at least with Polyurethane paint. A trouble I did run across which I cannot find any chatter on, was small bits of foam shedding from a fresh roller this made a real mess, has anyone seen this as well?
Great ‘heat’ tip Patrick! I’ve had the experience of my foam brush shedding too, but only after I’ve used the roller with my BIN Shellac Primer. I find the shellac (or some other component in this primer) tends to soften the foam and if I use it for too long it slowly starts to fall apart. My quick fix is to swap out to a new roller if it starts to feel spongy.
Hi Denise – Like you, I usually paint with a brush but I wanted to try rolling for a sideboard rather than brush. I used the rollers pictured, did everything as outlined and as soon as I started rolling I got a ton of air bubbles. I ended up smoothening it with a brush. What did I do wrong? 🙁 I’m going to try holding the roller in place to go back over it but it was very bubbly and I’m assuming this wouldn’t flatten. Any tips? You are always so helpful! Thanks for all your great tips!
Hi Alison! Hmmm… I know a few things that cause bubbles – Excess pressure on the roller. Overworking an area. Quality of paint. Paint that is to thin/old/or watered down will often make air bubbles while rolling. Also, I know when I used a blender for my milk paint (mixed it so well it was all foamy..lol) and then started applying it with a brush, I ended up with a ton of air bubbles! If paint is shaken rather than stirred…not good unless it has time to settle.
One of my favorite bloggers shared a tip about using rollers that I have tried and found success with. After rolling the paint, hold the roller in place (so it doesn’t roll) and lightly pull the roller back over your ‘paint stroke’. This flattens the paint out even more and gives a beautiful smooth finish. Thanks for all of your tips. I always look forward to Tuesdays, just to see what helpful tip you might have! 🙂
Robin
Thanks Robin 🙂 and GREAT tip! I’m going to have to give this a try!!
My Problem, is I can not get the high density foam roller to “roll” ; I do not know what I am doing wrong it ends up functioning in a very very Unmanageable messy slide mode as an uncontrollable paint brush;
How can a very very smooth sanding job provide enough bite for the paint to stick and the roller to roll ?
Maybe i have to much paint; but I do not seem to be able to figure out how to load the roller without ending up with to much paint and then the darn thing will not roll ; I am just – “”slip sliding a way”” ( … ) 🙂
Also I am trying to use high quality zinsser 123 primer ; but it drys way to quickly and naturally seems by its very
nature to go on thick. ( maybe because my can is rather old; any suggeatio9ns on how to safely thin zinsser?
Can I use the floetrol thinner with zinsser ?
Of course I can sand down the primer ( and get back to a good smooth surface ) BUT I need to figure out how to get the final coat smooth ; and I have not found any brush approach or any roller technique to make this happen
I am very frustrated !!
Thanks Denise for this tip. I have been afraid to use my foam roller on furniture because of air bubbles, however I do use it and great for wall touch ups. Since I only occasionally paint a piece of furniture for myself, I tend to use a good quality brush. But next time I might try my “Ultra Smooth High Density Foam” roller. 🙂
They would be great for wall touch ups! 🙂 And I usually shoot or brush my furniture too Judy. I find painting with a brush rather than a roller or even a spray-gun feels more ‘artsy’ and relaxing to me! But I have to say, this does speed up the process and gives beautiful results.