Hello my friends… today is a “Sanding Furniture Like A Pro” Quick-Tip-Thursday!
While sanding this Kroehler, I thought of all of you who have asked: “Do I have to sand off ALL the old paint before repainting?”
NO, YOU DON’T NEED TO SAND OFF ALL THE OLD PAINT!
THE GOAL IS TO GET THE PIECE SMOOTH AND PROVIDE A LITTLE TOOTH FOR THE NEW PAINT JOB TO ADHERE TO.
You can see this dresser required a fair amount of sanding. Layers of black paint had been rolled on and an orbital sander had left some substantial scratches. Even though this is an extreme case, it’s been sanded smooth but not ALL the paint has been removed.
{And thank you to all of you who chimed in with your ideas! I’ve repaired, patched, sanded and primed. Now onto the fun part!}
Here’s 14 More ‘Pro’ Sanding Tips:
:: Use low grit sandpaper (60-100) for old thick finishes
:: Start with a medium grit (120-150) to remove most finishes
:: Work your way up to a fine grit (220) for paint (300+) for stain
:: Wear protection for your ears, eyes and lungs
:: Make sure the sandpaper is secured tightly on the sander or your sanding block
:: An inexpensive palm sander is fast and easy and gives professional results
:: Whether sanding by hand or sander, apply light pressure
:: Keep sandpaper flat to the wood for smooth results
:: Always sand in the direction of the grain
:: Let the sander & sandpaper do the work for you
:: Change your sandpaper often
:: Hand sanding with high grit sandpaper (320-400) is ideal before staining (not required when painting)
:: Test smoothness of wood prior to staining by rubbing a stocking over the surface. If it snags, it’s not 100% smooth
:: Remove ALL dust with a vacuum and tack cloth before prime and/or paint
All the steps in furniture painting are important. And sanding does takes time and patience not to mention it can be messy.
I used to hate it but it’s slowly growing on me like a fungus… sometimes it’s even somewhat enjoyable.
But even if sanding is not-your-thing, taking the time to properly prepare your furniture will make the difference between a SO-SO looking piece – and a piece you LOVE!
The secret to pro looking furniture is to take the extra time and sand it for beautiful results!
Related Posts –
How To Reduce Dust While Sanding
A Foolproof Way To Avoid Tricky Sanding
Happy sanding!
Denise
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The dustless sander adapter is a brilliant idea I am definitely adopting on my next project. One question I have is how do you choose which type of sander is best for the type of project you are doing? I currently have a small square electric hand sander. But I see others mostly using an orbital sander. I did a quick search in Home Depot and there’s belt, sheet, orbital and spindle sanders. I’m very new to working with wood and refurbishing furniture. Thank you for your expertise!!
Hi Jen! I used a palm sheet sander and a corner sander for the longest time. They work great for scuff sanding but take longer to strip sand. My orbital sat on the shelf because it intimidated me…lol. But now that I’ve got used to the settings, grits of sandpaper to use on different woods, I couldn’t go without my orbital. It can do scuff sanding and strip a piece down very nicely. Belt sanders are super heavy duty and are great for woodworking, furniture repair etc but if you’re painting, staining, restyling I wouldn’t think its needed. I don’t have one yet either. Hope this helps. 🙂
Sanding does really take some effort but the end result is worth it! Thank you for sharing these tips, Denise.
Hi Denise, I’ve painted on a glass top, underneath. Can you suggest something (clear coat) i can coat over the paint so it’s able to be cleaned?, without taking off the acrylic? Thanks!
Fantastic tips Denise, as a professional I can confirm that they’re indeed part of our handbook, haha! The tack cloth trick is especially great, it’s a helpful piece of advice handed down from generation to generation – thanks for sharing.
Hi Denise,
I have a black kitchen table that I am looking to sand and paint white; however, I would love to stain the top of the table. Given that I am thinking the table is similar to the dresser you sanded down in your provided photo, what grit would you suggest for sanding the top of my table so I can sand it? Also suggestions on brands of stain to use?
Hi Alicia! If you have a sander, starting with a 120 and working your way up to 220 (for a smooth stained finish) works wonders. As for stain recommendations, I find the gel stains REALLY easy to work with and apply. General Finishes, Minwax or Varathane brands are all great. 🙂
I don’t know if you ever used citrus stripper. Well, I came across a hometalk tutorial on removing layers of paint or stain. The thing that made this so easy is apply to surface cover complete area in plastic wrap. Next wait 12 to 24 hours ( I waited 24) take a scraper and the layers just call off. The artical said it would be like dry Sand but for me it was moist paint and any other finish I literary fell off. I was so shocked. Sanding after will be easy. It does allow the wood to instantly show up. I just still can not believe the stripper and plastic wrap made is so fast and easy to remove the layers. You really should try it on a flat top of any piece where you plain on sanding. You will be amazed.
Hi, Denise. I just did 3 coats of a satin finish paint on a bookcase, now I want to distress it. I’ve done no sanding on this project. The finish looks good, but not perfectly smooth. Should I sand it now, or is it too late to do that? Thanks!
Hi Elizabeth! It’s never to late to sand but the grit of the sandpaper will determine your finish. For instance, if you want some distressing on corners for example, you could use say a 220 for distressing – then a 320-400 for all over for a final coat sanding before applying your topcoat. 🙂
Hey there! I’m going to try one of your Chalk Paint Recipes, ideally the one with the Calcium Carbonate but if I can’t find it today I will do the plaster of paris.
Do I need to sand if I use the homemade Paint?
Trying to avoid unnecessary work but want to do it right too 🙂
Thanks!
Billie
Hi Billie. Most of the time no sanding is required but the rule of thumb when using diy or brand name chalk paint – when chalk painting over a shiny/glossy surface, a light sanding is beneficial for good adhesion. Any other surface – NOT required. 🙂
Awesome