If you’re following me on Facebook, you know a few days ago I received a fun box of goodies from General Finishes Corporation. I decided to put these GF products to the test by re-styling 3 road-rescued furniture finds.
My first curb-shopped re-do was the solid pine table below. Isn’t that yellow stain with the paint dreadful? I really didn’t like the colors someone had used {and that someone was me..yes, I just mumbled that under my breath in hopes you didn’t hear me} so this table’s been hiding in a dark corner. Its “time-in-hiding” was brought to an end because of its large surface to Gel Stain.
A gorgeous surface but…ohhhhh no… knotty pine is a soft large grained wood that typically doesn’t take well to dark stain.
To get a nice even stain on this softwood, a conditioner or shellac is often required. Did I use a conditioner or shellac… NO!
On the General Finishes pamphlet, it states that this Gel Stain “…produces an even finish on hard to stain woods such as Aspen, Pine or Maple”.
My vision… a “Country-Charm-Coffee Table”. So even if the GF claim didn’t hold true, some variance in tone would just add to the appeal.
So here’s the low down on this stuff…
The Java Gel Stain resembles a rich chocolate pudding. It has a slight odor but not as harsh as other stains I’ve worked with. I used a heavy duty lint free Shop Towel and worked in small sections.
It’s really easy to apply~ wipe on and then wipe off the excess so it doesn’t leave streaks. I waited 4 hours to dry in-between applications and I stopped after 3 coats.
I didn’t want my table any darker and I really liked the original warm yellow tones which were showing through… go figure…lol!
I’m confident if I had applied another few coats of the Java Gel Stain , it would have continued to even out and become a much deeper tone.
Here’s a few more reasons why this stain is pretty dreamy to work with:
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No drips or runs and it stays where it’s applied… even on a vertical surface.
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Glides on and applies smoothly with a lint free cloth or soft paper towel.
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Doesn’t require a lot of wiping off after applying.
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Provides nice stain coverage.
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No sanding between coats.
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Easy clean up with soap and water.
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No strong odor.
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Urethane in Stain also provides a top coat.
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Stain dries in a few hours before re-coating.
Since we’re on the topic of stain, if you missed this oldie but goodie, you can find more information on Staining-Over-Stain here.
If you have any questions/tips/or advice on staining pine or the General Finishes Gel Stain …I’d love to hear your thoughts. 🙂
Also, stay tuned for Part#2 & Part#3 of this Road-Rescue Make-Over Series… here’s a sneak peek…
Have yourself a fabulous day!
Denise x
I am refinishing an old +dresser which had veneer on the top. I removed it and underneath as a pick of 1 inch plywood which was not in good shape. I tried sanding it but that did not work. Bought some new veneer nd applied it with contact cement nd that also was not successful. What do you suggest I try next. I could buy 1/4 inch plywood, stain and urethane. I would really appreciate some suggestions. Thank yyo.
Hi. Looks beautiful! Love the color!
I read comments and saw you used HMCP for the bottom, but what color did you make it out of? I went to the linked post and saw the recipes and you other samples. Like the desk- what is a good color. Of white/cream to use for the bottom without being too yellow or too white.
Thanks
May I ask what color of this gel stain was used?its beautiful !
Hi Jamie! It’s General Finishes Java Gel Stain. 🙂
What shade / color of general finishes gel did you use for the pine table? There are many different shades but this one is quite nice.
Thanks
Maryann
Hi Maryann! I used this General Finishes Java Gel Stain. Hope this helps! 🙂
I love the richness of the stained table top. I am going to attempt refinishing a knotty pine paneled wall in my living room. My goal is to remove the “orange” tone that is typical of knotty pine paneling from the 70’s but retain the grain and knotts in the wood. Do you think the Java Gel Stain would work for this project?
I think the Java Gel Stain would be a good choice. And the more coats you apply, the richer the dark color (and less orange) you will get. As I always like to say, not a bad idea to test in an inconspicuous area before taking on a large project like that though. Best of luck.
I have a round oak table, how much of the poly do I sand off to use your stain?
HI Denise,
Sorry if I missed it above, but what is the paint color uses on the lower portion of the table?
Thank you,
Lisa
Hi there Lisa! This table was painted with a Custom Chalk Paint made with “Light Green” Loop recycled paint. I also used this color on this Road Rescued China Cabinet, and then dark waxed it.
I am getting ready to use gel stain on my knotty pine dining table. The people at Kelly Moore paints said I would not have to sand it down, just put the stain on. Would you recommend sanding first? Love the way your table looks.
Hi there Judy! If you’re working with a raw wood knotty pine dining table, it does not require sanding down before apply the gel stain. If there is an existing topcoat on a pre-existing finish, a sanding will greatly benefit the absorption of the gel stain. Here’s another tutorial on staining over stain which you may find helpful.
Hi Denise:
I know the original post is old but this might help someone else who visits your great site.
According to General FInishes applying gel stain to knotty pine can cause the stain to lift when applying the topcoat due to the pitch (resin or tar) in the pine interfering with adhesion of the stain. The end result is a streaky, blotchy mess. They suggest a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper and mixing 2 parts Gel Stain with one part Gel Satin Topcoat to improve adherence. They also state that the stain may never adhere to the knots themselves and recommend working stain into them with a brush before applying topcoat.
LOVE the way the tabletop turned out! I love general finishes gel stain – used it on my kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanity but I haven’t dabbled with furniture yet. That will be next 🙂
Im curious about how hard the finish is? Can you set a hot mug on it? Can you wash it? HOw does the finish hold up to everyday use?
I recommend a topcoat if it’s going to be subjected to high traffic use. General Finishes has durable water based finishes in a variety of sheens to protect a stained finish. Once a few coats are applied and the piece is 100% cured, it will be tough as nails. 🙂
Great article, beautiful finish. Very timely too, I’m building a farmhouse table using untreated furniture grade knotty pine. Do I need to epoxy the knots before applying the GF Gel Stain?
Hmmmm great question Mike. I guess it really depends on the look your after. Personally, if it’s a farmhouse table, I think the natural knotty pine will look fabulous. If you’d like to go ahead and fix the knots because you’re worried about breakage/cracks/or you don’t like the look, then here’s a good video tutorial. https://youtu.be/h778Ashkh9I And yes, you can always tint the epoxy or product to blend with the GF stain. Great project!
When you say shop towels are you talking about the roll of blue heavy duty paper towel sold at big box stores? I have problems with the rags I have leaving lint. Very willing to buy if that is what you are talking about. Thank you. Your table came out with a beautiful finish.
Yes, that’s exactly what I mean Kathy…they work great!
I used a gel stain on an oak buffet and am not happy with the results. The stain was so very hard to get even (was Minwax) and the color is much redder than I wanted. I planned to rough it up and put a grey stain over to tone down the red, but as I’m attempting to rough-up, the gel stain is coming completely off! There is just a bit left in the grain. So the wood looks very light with very dark streaks in the grain. Any suggestions? P.S. your projects are great!!
Robyn sorry to hear this. So frustrating after all that work! I can think of 2 reasons this may have happened and you could try either or for a fix. 1. A pre-stain wood conditioner is recommended for some woods prior to using this Minwax product. Pre-conditioner really helps even out blotchy stain and gives a nice even look. 2. Gel stains are thick so they don’t absorb into wood as fast as watery stains do. When sanding and/or applying a second coat, at least 8-10+ hours may be needed.
I have knotty pine, medium stained kitchen cabinets. Can you use a gel on these and do you sand then the gel and what goes on after? Will this stain be uneven for knotty pine. They are 28 years old and they do have the wear and tear marks on them. Do you sand that down, the scratches?
It’s a bit of a challenge answering these types of questions without actually seeing the cabinets or piece. But if you’re looking for a more rustic look, I’m guessing a light sanding, apply gel stain (however many coats you like) and then seal with a topcoat for durability and easy cleaning would be the way to go. To get a flawless ‘new’ look, a full sanding/stripping of your pine cabinets may be required.
love this table!! I haven’t used the gel stain before but I have a coffee table I’m wanting to try it on. The problem I’m having is that the top seems to be a wood veneer. I know that regular stain won’t adhere to this evenly, but will the Java gel stain?
There should be no problem staining a wood veneer Kristin because veneers are actually made from a thin sheet of real wood. Where you would have a problem is if your table is a laminate. Laminated furniture can not be stained. If you’re unsure which your table is, here’s an example of veneer and laminatee that may be helpful.
O shoot I forgot to ask….what is the bottom of this table painted with?
The bottom of this table was painted with a custom DIY chalk/mineral paint using a Loop Recycled Paint in ‘Light Green’.
I am doing a small side table and will be staining the top and painting the legs. Which did you do first? Stain or paint? Thinking about using this product. Your table top came out beautiful.
Thanks Regina! For this table I believe I painted the bottom first and then stained the top. There is really no right or wrong though. Either way, I take the time to completely cover the finished area (ie painted or stained) before applying the next.
OMG I am so glad I came across this site. I was originally searcing for how to remove veneer. Google brought me here and I cant stop reading your info. I too love to stop and check out stuff curb side. My daughter gets so mad at me
lol… she’ll get it one day and may end up curb shopping something for herself. 😉 Welcome Jennifer!
Loved this easy technique. I’m looking to stain my antique library desk and need an easy stain that will work quickly so that I can return to the task at hand of entertaining my two toddler boys. It appears you may have done a light sanding, used the stain and then applied a wipe on poly, is that correct?
If you’re planning to re-stain your desk, the steps you’ve listed are correct. This particular table had a completely sanded down top and was stained in a ‘not so pretty’ light stain. I really didn’t like the way it looked, so I applied the GF Java Gel stain on top.
Did you sand this down first? It looks like there isn’t a finish on it before you started the gel stain. I want to try on my kitchen cabinets. They are that hideous pickled oak… 🙂 But do I have to sand them all down first?
Hi LouAnn! Yes, I did sand this finish down before applying the GF Gel Stain. However, with the General Finish Gel Stain Products, a complete removal is not required. You can give it a light sanding to remove the topcoat and then apply the gel. When using this method, I would test first though. The color will vary slightly because of the original oak stain.
I TRIED JAVA GEL AND HAD A HARD TIME GETTING IT ON SMOOTH I’m on my 4th coat and itstill isn’t even what did you use to apply gel when I wiped off excess it got all striced o luck with java and yours came out really nice any ideas thanks
Sorry to hear this Jacque. I’ve used Shop Towels, old t-shirts and lint free soft clothes to apply this Java Gel Stain and all have worked nicely. It’s possible the streaking has nothing to do with you or your applicator and everything to do with the wood. Some woods absorb stain VERY unevenly. In this case, a pre-wood conditioner is applied before staining and helps to get uniform finish.
Hi Denise…so I am trying this gel stain on a side table. My question is what do I have to do to the table top to prepare it for the stain? This table has a gloss finish right now, do I have to sand it down?
This General Finishes Gel Stain can be applied over an existing stain so you don’t have to sand down to bare wood; but for best results, I would sand down the gloss.
Awesome, that’s what I did … phew 🙂 Thanks so much!
Oh and one more thing, I am anxious to see what you do to the piece on the right, It definitely needs a makeover! 🙂
LOL… I agree!
You did a wonderful job. I too have a similar piece that I bought years ago at a furniture store when the distressed look first came out. The bottom is a dark green and the top is a light color on pine. I love your dark top on yours and the light bottom. Something for me to think about re-doing one day. Loved your tutorial and nice that the gel stain has a poly built into it. Also like the idea that if need an extra poly coat (with no extra stain) that they have a wipe on one too….that is amazing!
Well, as usual Dee, you did a remarkable job. I was curious as to how the stain would work and from your pictures and explanation, it worked beautifully. Did you also use their Milk Paint? Curious to know how it compares to MMS or chalk/cottage paint.
Carole xx
Thank you Carole! Right now I’m working on a little writing desk using the General Finishes Van Dyke Brown Glaze. Then for my next piece, I’ve picked out the dresser I’m going to Milk Paint. I’ll definitely let you know how it all goes! x
So the stain has poly in it? Is that normal? Did you have any bubbles or streaks? Did you have to buff it at all?
Hi Shelly! The GF Pamphlet states ~ “due to the high content of urethane in Gel Stains, they may be used themselves or as a one can finish”. I guess I didn’t need to apply a topcoat but I did use a Satin Minwax Wipe-On Poly because I wanted a subtle sheen and extra protection. No bubbles or streaks or buffing. Very easy to wipe on and wipe off and very nice to work with. Probably the most fun I’ve ever had staining!
It looks AMAZING! Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you Suzanne… I really enjoyed working with it!