After spending $45 and a half day drive on a quart of brand name chalk paint, I was determined to find the BEST Homemade Chalk Paint Recipes for a cost efficient alternative.
If you’re interested in mixing your own chalk paint to save yourself time and money, read on because I discovered a bunch of interesting stuff I wasn’t made aware of on other blogs.
I tried four (4) of the most popular Homemade Chalk Paint Recipes and the results surprised me and left me with a hands-down fave! In sharing my experience, I hope it helps you decide which DIY recipe is right for you.
So let’s start my countdown…. 😉
Baking Soda Recipe
2/3 cup Paint
1/3 cup Baking Soda
Mix really well
My least favourite is the baking soda recipe.
When applying this Homemade Chalk Paint, (HMCP) it had a very gritty texture despite a thorough mixing. I could actually see the tiny granulars in the paint as I was applying each coat.
I was worried it wouldn’t sand down properly, but it turned out just fine…. whew! Here’s what it looks like after the final sanding/distressing.
Although Baking Soda Chalk Paint is listed last on my countdown, it’s perfect if you’re trying to achieve an old weathered, distressed “country” looking piece of furniture.
Deana at Alchemy Fine Living has a great video showcasing a dresser painted with the Baking Soda Chalk Paint Recipe.
Baking Soda Chalk Paint Cost – $1.69 for a box of baking soda which can be used for another 5 single chalk paint recipes + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – No time was spent on the purchase because I always have baking soda in my kitchen. 2-3 minutes to mix it thoroughly into the paint.
Application – Grainy look and feel even when mixed thoroughly.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or sanding required and great coverage. Good coverage after 2 coats but I applied 3.
Odour – No odour other than the latex paint it’s mixed with.
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex. Not as easy as 100% green brand name chalk paint.
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as brand name chalk paint (ie distressing with dampened cloth).
Finish – The finished look is chalky but not quite as smooth as brand name chalk paint.
Non-Sanded Grout Recipe
1 cup Paint
2 Tbsp Unsanded Grout
Water to mix Grout
Number 3 on my list is the Unsanded Grout Recipe.
I mixed the grout with the water, then once smooth, added it to the paint. It looked and applied like a brand name chalk paint. It dried fast (within 1/2 hour), and the finish was just as “chalky” as the store bought.
It had a bit of a weird odour…ok…really weird. But because it was applying so beautifully, I wasn’t bothered by it too much.
Fabulous! … so why is it listed No.3 on my list?
This DIY Homemade Grout version started to thicken up while I was applying my first coat…. it turned more like thick icing than paint.
I had to keep mixing it while I was painting and eventually had to add more water because it was too thick. The next day it had really congealed and more water was needed. Take a look… it just kept turning into a thick mess!
Here is the before and after. The table on the left is painted with Baking Soda HMCP and the table on the right is painted with Unsanded Grout HMCP. Can you see a difference?
Unsanded Grout Chalk Paint Cost – $17.99 for a large 10lb bag which will last a zillion single recipes + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – Easy to find Non-Sanded Grout on-line or at any Lowe’s, Home Depot, Rona, Canadian Tire or any on-line home reno store. Note – Grout comes in different colours. You want to buy white unsanded grout. Why? If you add a coloured grout to your paint, it may alter your paint’s hue. 3-5 minutes to measure and mix it thoroughly into the water and paint.
Application – Fabulous… until it started thickening up. Then time was spent mixing it and adding additional water to obtain the right consistency.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or prep required and it had full coverage after 3 coats. The more water I added, the thinner the coverage.
Odour – It had a weird smell. I’d love to explain it to you but I don’t know what to compare it to?
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as with a brand name chalk paint (ie rubbing with dampened cloth).
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex (brand name chalk paint cleans up much easier)
Finish – The finished look is exactly like a brand name chalk paint. Smooth, chalky and lovely.
Plaster of Paris Recipe
3 parts Paint
1 part Plaster of Paris
Water to mix
My number 2 pick is the Plaster of Paris recipe.
I made a smooth paste with the plaster of paris and water before mixing it into the paint. When mixed well, it was silky smooth and applied just as nicely as brand name chalk paint.
The second day it did thicken a little and appeared a little grainy, but after a thorough mixing it was fine.
The left over paint was stored in a glass pickle jar and used again 2 weeks later.
Plaster of Paris Chalk Paint Cost – $6.oo for a large box which will last for a looong time + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – Easy to find Plaster of Paris on-line or at any Lowes, Home Depot, Rona, Canadian Tire or craft store. 3-5 minutes to measure and mix it thoroughly into the water and paint.
Application – Fabulous! The consistency was great and it applied like brand name chalk paint.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or prep required. Applied 3 coats for compete coverage.
Odour – None other than the latex paint used.
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as with a brand name chalk paint (ie rubbing with dampened cloth).
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex (brand name chalk paint clean up is much easier)
Finish – The finished look is exactly like a brand name chalk paint. Smooth, chalky and lovely.
I used the Plaster of Paris Chalk Paint Recipe to re-purpose an old sewing table into a little girl’s desk. What do you think?
Calcium Carbonate
2 parts paint
1 part Calcium Carbonate
My hands down #1 choice was the Calcium Carbonate Recipe…which makes good sense since Calcium Carbonate is chalk!
It mixed into the paint easily, had the perfect consistency, coverage was fantastic, dried within 30 minutes, AND left me with a perfect chalky finish. I stored the left over paint in a yogurt container and it kept the same consistency for days. (I did stir it vigorously each time before use.)
The only downfall to my #1 choice was I had a difficult time finding it! Not many stores sell it in powder form and the pill form won’t work even if you grind them up.
My local pharmacy ordered it in for me and I picked it up 4 days later. Since then, I’ve found a good grade Calcium Carbonate On-line and will be ordering from the comfort of my home. 🙂
As I mentioned above, the Plaster of Paris recipe was used to re-purpose the sewing table into a desk, but I used the Calcium Carbonate Chalk Paint to paint the matching chair. Can you tell the difference?
Calcium Carbonate Chalk Paint Cost – $11.99 for a 500g container which I’m almost finished. I’ve painted 1 chair, a large desk (NOT the one shown above) and 2 large chalk board frames. I have enough left over for another small/medium project. Out of all four(4) recipes, Calcium Carbonate is the least economical. However, comparing it to brand name chalk paints, the cost difference is still pennies on the dollar in this recipes favour! + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – Took me 2 weeks to track this stuff down! I searched Shoppers Drug Mart, Health Food Stores, Organic Stores and finally asked at my local pharmacy. Next time, I’ll be ordering it on-line! 3-5 minutes to measure and mix it thoroughly into the paint.
Application – Fabulous…exactly like brand name chalk paints.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or prep required and the coverage was fantastic. It dried faster than the Plaster of Paris (within 20 minutes) because no water was added.
Odour – None, other than the latex paint used.
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as with a brand name chalk paint (ie rubbing with dampened cloth).
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex (brand name chalk paint clean up is much easier)
Finish – The finished look is exactly like a brand name chalk paint. Smooth, chalky and beautiful!
So the Best Homemade Chalk Paint Recipe… Calcium Carbonate!
Although these HMCP recipes are not 100% green, the coverage and finish are VERY comparable to brand name chalk paints. In researching all my options, I also learned Wall Texture, Limestone and Whitening Powder can be used to make chalk paint.
I wish I knew who to give credit to for the above recipes. Whoever originally came up with them… thank-you… absolutely BRILLIANT!!!!
Still undecided which DIY recipe you’re going to try? You can read more HMCP Tips here.
If you have a HMCP experience you’d like to share or have any questions, feel free to leave a comment and I’ll get right back to you!
Enjoy your day & happy painting.
Denise
Brenda Y. Glad says
Thank you Denise for your kindness and generosity, it made happy to have found your site. I will try the CC paint and let you know how I did. I am working on setting up my blog very soon. I am more excited than than words alone can say! I’ll keep in touch.
Connie says
hi Denise,
Love your awesome tips!
Thank you for putting this useful tips on your post.
I have one question, I am in Australia, can I use water base paint (acrylic paint) like e-color/British paint instead of latex for this tips?
As this is the popular brand for painting furniture here
thanks again
Connie
Denise says
Yes Connie, I’ve used acrylic based and it worked great.
Dayna says
What grit sandpaper do you use in between coats to smooth out?
Thanks!
Denise says
For the above chalk/mineral paint recipes Dayna, I usually use an extra fine grit of (280-320) between coats, and a super fine grit of (360-400) for my final coat.
Sue says
Hi Denise,
Have been wanting to try chalk paint for awhile. I was very happy to find your sight as the cost of name brand chalk paint was preventing me from going ahead and getting started. I just wanted to mention because I noticed only one other person has said anything, but the beginning of each of your answers is covered up by your picture. Not sure if you realized this or not. Nice picture though. : )
Denise says
So happy you’ve found SI too! Thanks for the heads up on the Gravatar Sue. I’ve noticed this problem on my mobile device and also if my screen image is set to more than 100% viewing. I’m not sure if this is a theme issue or the actual size of the avatar, but I’m going to try reducing the pic size now.
Andi says
So glad I googled this information before I spent too much on a CP! I love that you have so many responses to questions as well! Unfortunately I can’t read half of your answers because they are covered by your picture 🙂 I wonder if it’s something on my end. :/ I will be doing my kitchen cabinets soon!
Thanks for your reviews as this has been very helpful. Beautiful pieces!
Denise says
I’m glad you’ve found this post and all the comments useful! The gravatar pic is not an issue on your end Andi. I just replied to Sue on what I think it may be and I’m going to work on fixing it. Thanks for the heads up!
Dianne says
I LOVE THIS SITE!!! Anyone…what is the best way to paint spindles….lots of them on older chairs? thanks
Dianne says
Oh I forgot to ask …also the best way to wax the spindles!! Thanks
Denise says
The easiest way to paint spindles is to spray them Dianne. Spray a few thin coats rather than 1 or 2 heavy coats and rotate so all angles are covered.
Dianne says
Thanks for your reply….can chalk paint be used in a sprayer? And what about waxing? Again thanks and thanks for sharing your expertise with us!
Denise says
Diane, I recently tried DIY Chalk/Mineral Paint w my Spray-Gun and it worked fabulous! I've also used Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in my sprayer and that was a gorgeous finish too. As for waxing chalkypaint, it works the exact same way you would use wax any other furniture. Small amounts of was and work in small sections. Wipe on and buff off.
Charlotte says
Another Q – can i paint straight onto ‘fake’ wood, like laminated mdf wood, or whatever you might call it (unsure on the technical name)? I’ve a little bedside table i’d like to paint but unsure as to whether i can paint directly onto that surface. Thanks again x
Denise says
Yes, Chalk Finish adheres well to all types of faux/fake wood. The only time I suggest a light sanding is if it has a really shiny surface.
Charlotte says
I was hoping you could help me, is baking soda the same as bicarbonate of soda or baking powder? I cannot find baking soda in the UK anywhere! I thought this would be easier/cheaper than the other ingredients. Thank you x
Denise says
Bicarbonate is Baking soda… they are just different names for the same thing Charlotte. I believe Baking Powder has some extra ingredients added so I wouldn’t want to use that for a HMCP Recipe. Love you guys in the UK!!! 🙂
Kat says
Hiya, I just wondered after painting (I was thinking of using the calcium carbonate recipe) would you wax as you would with regular chalk paint?
Lara says
Love these ideas! For the plaster of Paris option, what was your water to plaster of Paris ratio to make the paste?
Denise says
I don’t have an exact ratio Lara. I just start by adding a couple of tablespoons and keep adding and mixing until I end up with a pancake batter consistency. It doesn’t have to be exact. The point of adding the water is to ensure the Plaster of Paris is THOROUGHLY MIXED before adding it into the paint. I use a cheap old blender. 🙂
CanDee says
I just tried mixing my paint with the #1 Choice. I used 1 quart of paint with 2 cups of Calcium Carb and it is very, very thick and lumpy. I’m using a paint mixing wand too. What am I doing wrong? I’m going to add a tad bit of water to thin it out. Hope this doesn’t ruin it. Help!! Thanks!!
Denise says
You’re doing nothing wrong… just add in small amounts of water… just enough to thin the paint to the proper consistency. This will not ruin it. 🙂
anena says
Hi Denise, thanks for your great site. I am painting a dresser and a table and chairs. I want to be able to put a glass down without getting a mark or a ring. What is the best top coat for this. Please be specific as I am unfamiliar with the terms. Also, if using wax on dinging chairs, does it dry well or can rub off on clothing?
Denise says
Anena, once wax cures and fully hardens, it will not rub off on clothing. However, by what you’re describing, I would recommend Minwax Polycrylic or Varathane topcoat. Both are water based, easy to apply, and provides tough/durable protection. They can be brushed on, sprayed on, or Minwax even has the wipe on.
Pat says
How long does this chalk paint last on furniture? Does it rub off if it is Painted on chairs etc . Have you ever painted couches that are a more or less smooth finish ?
Denise says
I’ve never painted any couches Pat, but I know of others who have…including the fabric! I have painted my fair share of chairs, tables and other high traffic items. Chalk Finished items have GREAT durability! Protecting your piece with an appropriate topcoat is recommended. I like using a wax finish for for a soft sheen on dresser or low traffic items and a poly for high traffic ie tables, chairs etc.
Rachel says
Hi Denise! I am completely new to using chalk paint, but am very intrigued! I am wondering if it would work to paint over stained knotty pine? I would use your preferred #1 recipe. Also, do you recommend using a wax to finish walls or any other type of finish? Any tips are much appreciated! Thanks so much!
Denise says
I’ve used HMCP on many knotted pine pieces of furniture and it works very nicely. I’ve never painted any walls in ChalkPaint and waxing walls would be quite the task. May I ask why you’re opting for a Chalky Finish on your walls Rachel…are you doing a chalkboard wall? If it’s not for a chalkboard purpose, I would just opt for a flat/eggshell latex for walls.
laura says
Hi! I make ceramics and you can get caco3 from pottery suppliers. Its called “whiting” in Ireland. Its very cheap costing €1.93 for 2.5kg (not sure what that is in dollars!)
Karen Murray says
Thanks so much for all the info. How does do any of the HMCH paints work on walls? I am painting the walls in my house in France and French paint is notoriously thin, requireing MANY more coats to cover than North American or English paint. What I want to do is increase adhesion and thicken the paint. I will be painting over plastered walls, some that have been painted and some that have have been wallpapered (paper has been stripped and walls have been washed and sanded, and some primed plasterbaoard. I will not be waxing because in two years we will have to repaint and anyway I think that the matte finish will be fine for the “country feel” I am going for. Any ideas?
Denise says
Hmmm. I’m not familiar with France and French paint Karen. If its components are a latex based, I’m quite sure it would work however you might want to test a small amount/area before taking on all your walls.
Karen says
Thanks.. France has both latex and aklyd based paint, but they seem to have strange additives…words they never taught in french class! I’ll paint the small wall in the entry first…I never liked that wall anyway…
Denise says
LOL…good luck Karen! 🙂
Sociable Socia says
I’ve painted bathroom cabinets with the Annie Sloan paint. I must have put too much wax on as they remained sticky days later. I’m painting over the oak cabinets in my kitchen and would like to use something else that is dull. Any suggestions? P.S. our small dog like to scratch on the cabinets if his treat are on the counter. We are afraid he will make up the wax,
Denise says
I don’t recommend a wax finish on a high traffic area such as a kitchen. A flat/eggshell acrylic or chalk finish paint along with 3+ coats of a flat or satin polycrylic will give you a nice “flat” finish with very durable protection… even with your furry friends enthusiasm and excitement! 😉
Stephanie says
Thank you for all the different options! I tried the plaster of Paris but as soon as I mixed it the paint turned into lumpy crumbly paint! So I’m going to try the baking soda next. Just a quick question- I love the colour of your furniture- I’m going to be doing a cabinet and was wondering what colour you used?
Denise says
It’s been a while since I did these pieces, but I believe it was Behr’s Cottage White purchased at Home Depot. 🙂
carol says
Denise… HELP! When you say 2 parts paint, 1 part Calcium Carbonate… how much is a part? I am painting an entire restaurant! I will use 5 gallon paint containers… so how much per gallon of paint will I need for CC? Do you mean 1 gallon of paint and 1/2 gallon of CC?
Denise says
Exactly Carol… a “part” can be any amount you require. Cup/Pint/Quart/Gallon etc. However, for such a LARGE job (an entire restaurant), it may be advisable to use a pre-mixed ChalkBoard Paint such as Rustoleum and spray it on for a flawless finish. Any of the brand name Chalk Board Paints are considerably less expensive than Annie Sloan or other Chalky Paints and specifically formulated for writing on!
carol says
thank you so much Denise… I appreciate you getting back to me… I need to start this job asap! You are awesome and love your website/blog! Woo Hooo
Denise says
Pleasure… 🙂 and all the best with the restaurant!
Sandy says
First, I want to say Thanks so much for sharing all this great info on chalk paint!!! I have a gallon of high gloss white that I need to use and was wondering if you’ve ever used high gloss paint with the plaster of paris mixture? If so how did it turn out?
Denise says
Sandy, the ‘glossiest’ paint I’ve ever tried with any of these recipes has been a semi-gloss so unfortunately I don’t know how a high-gloss paint would turn out. Chalk Finish Paints are known for their flat/porous finish; so I’m guessing a high-gloss will not give you the same results.
patti says
Denise….. GREAT info on your site..TY for your educated info….. I have a question. I want to paint several pieces that were my mother in law’s furniture who has recently passed away. However, I personally LOVE the finishes I see on furniture in stores that I KNOW MUST be milk paint or chalk paint but it has a glossy finish. Is this because it is waxed after painting? I don’t like the flat look nor the feel of the flat look. I like the finished smooth sheen I see on the distressed furniture. How do I get this look. Is it milk paint? Or is it chalk paint?
Denise says
I’m sorry for your family’s loss Patti. To answer your question, the look you are after can be achieved using Milk Paint OR Chalk Paint. Paint, Distress & Sand Smooth, Top Coat with a few layers of Wax and buff to a high sheen OR Top Coat with a Gloss or High Gloss Poly which provides protection and does not need to be re-applied in the future. Feel free to email if you have any more questions… and it’s so nice your keeping your mother-in-law’s pieces in the family.
kelly says
I was wondering if you’ve heard of anyone having the baking soda gritty texture after painting with Plaster Paris? I tried the baking soda first (to save a trip to the store) and it felt super rough after the first coat dried. I sanded it and applied a 2nd coat with a Plaster Paris mixture and it too seemed gritty. I keep looking at these youtube videos and people seem to be sanding just to distress and mine need to be sanded back to smooth— all over… Help, I picked chalk painting because I dont like to sand 🙂 please help!
Denise says
Chalk Paint doesn’t require you to sand/prep your piece before you paint because it adheres nicely to most surfaces without sanding. However, it you want a super smooth professional paint job, if you’re using brand name or homemade, sanding between coats is advised. I give a light sanding between each coat. Others wait and give a light sanding to the very last coat applied. And people who like texture to their paint job don’t sand at all. It all depends on the finished look you’re after. If you have any more questions Kelly, feel free to email me anytime. 🙂
Sydney Pogue says
I hav a bunch of semi gloss latex paint, and all other EXCEFT for flat paint, in or for the mixture to turn out properly, will any kind of a glossy paint work, or ONLY a flat paint mixture
Denise says
Sydney, the very best “chalky” results are from a flat/eggshell/matte paint. However I have used a semi-gloss latex, and have had nice results.
Sarah Beals says
Question, as this will be my first time with the CC recipe. Could you give the steps? Obviously, paint the piece first. Then do you sand and do a second coat? When do you wax? Does the piece have to be completly dry before you wax. Sorry if these seem silly, but I don’t want to sand or wax at the wrong time. 🙂
Denise says
No such thing as a silly question. 🙂 After I paint the first coat, I do sand to get a professional smooth finish. Then apply a second coat and lightly sand again. Depending on your paint/color, if a 3rd coat is needed, repeat the steps. Once the paint is thoroughly dry (I like waiting 24hrs if possible) then apply your wax.
Kathy Mainz says
Thank you so much for your honest appraisals of the DIY chalk paints. I was initially smitten by the name brand product until I spent $150/gallon for the product. It worked well, but as a person with a background in science, I’m interested in tacking the CaCo3 version. Have you tried using matte finish polyurethane over chalk paint?
Denise says
Yes, Kathy. I’ve used a matte poly over chalk paint and it looks beautiful!
marytoo says
Ok, this might be a reeeeeally stupid question. I am looking for chalkboard paint. I want to paint something so I can write on it with chalk. Is that this?
Aside question….. If not, what is the advantage of using chalk paint? Is it just the look? Well….duh, painting is a whole lot about the look. :p Thanks!
Denise says
Yes, you can use these recipes for a “writable” chalkboards Mary. If you don’t want to mix your own, you can purchase premixed brand-name chalkboard paint. A few good brands are Rust-Oleum, Benjamin Moore, and Martha Stewart. The advantage to painting furniture with chalk finish paint is it adheres beautifully without sanding (in most cases) and gives a nice finished look.
Beth says
I am new to chalk paint world and am considering using this technique to redo a bedroom set and dining room set! What is all this talk of wax after painting the furniture?? Also any tips for a newbie? I will either use the POP or CC recipe…
Thanks in advance!!
Denise says
A Chalk Painted finish has a porous surface and lends itself nicely to a wax top coat. The wax is absorbed by the paint and provides protection along with a beautiful sheen. If you don’t want to wax, you can use any protective topcoat you like… it doesn’t have to be waxed.
Janet Callahan says
Thanks so much, I’ve used your plaster of Paris chalk paint finish with excellent results on a bedroom set and other furniture pieces. I would now like to refinish painted kitchen cabinets. The factory finish on these cabinets is yellowing and flaking badly. It appears the finish has not adhered to the wood. I think I should sand to remove flaking paint, then use a shellac based primer, before applying chalk pair and will finish with a water based varnish. What do you think, I’m sure open to suggestions 🙂 Thanks Janet
Denise says
I just replied to your FB message Janet. 🙂
Lynnae says
I too am considering repainting my kitchen cabinets. I have never used chalk paint before but I am thinking I would like the antique finished look. I currently have OLD, white (although yellowed) cabinets. I know they would have to be cleaned with TSP and then?? I am concerned that the cabinets won’t be as ‘shiny’ as I would like though? Also, how often would you have to re-apply the wax to keep them nice? Finally, would they be washable because I am always washing/wiping spills, grease, etc… off the cabinets. Thank you so much for any help or advice you can offer!
Denise says
Lynnae, for high traffic kitchen cabinets I would suggest a poly topcoat rather than wax. You can choose a shiny sheen, it will be more durable, and you won’t have to re-apply!
Jackie says
Hello Thanks for all the great info, I have a question before you apply the chalk paint to a piece of wood furniture do you need to sand the piece before you apply the chalk paint? What steps to you suggest to prep a piece before you paint? I have a piece that has chalk paint on it and I want to redo the piece in a different color.
Denise says
Jackie, unless you applied a high gloss finish your chalk painted piece, no sanding should be required. I always recommend a quick wipe down/cleaning though. 🙂
Anita says
Can this formula be used on metal pieces as well as wood? I have two garden benches that I want to transform into a daybed frame and they need painting. This look would be great if it works on cast iron.
Denise says
Yes Anita, these formula’s can be used on metal as well as wood. If in doubt about the condition of your cast iron, test a small area for adhesion before painting the benches.
anita says
Will I need to wax the metal as you would do on wood for the correct finish? Thanks for your valuable input, Denise. Great information for ‘newbies’!
Denise says
Anita, I would top coat with something for protection but it doesn’t have to be wax. You can use wax, poly, shellac or whatever you like. However, if you want a flat/chalky look, wax or a flat/satin poly looks nice. 🙂
Susan says
I just tried painting using the plaster of paris recipe. I used half cup plaster mixed with one cup water and a cup of paint. I mixed well but it seemed very runny to me. It was dripping paint all over the place. Should this be so runny? Also, have you tried a “wax” called VAX (available on the web)? It is suppose to be an all natural product. If you use this product, you don’t have to strip/sand, if you want to change the paint color in the future. You’re suppose to be able to just paint right over it. It is much less work than using regular wax. Just rub it on with a sponge. Thank you so much!
Denise says
I’ll have to check out VAX wax because I’m not familiar with it. Sounds like an interesting all natural product so thanks for sharing Susan! If you’re using the P of P recipe it’s 3 parts paint to 1 part Plaster of Paris. eg ~ mix 1/2 cup plaster of paris with a few tablespoons of water until you get a smooth thick pancake batter mixture. Then add 1 1/2 cups paint and mix thoroughly again.
Trudi says
I really want to see the ratio of water/pop/paint, but your pic is covering part of it. 😀 Is it just me?
Denise says
3 Parts Paint to 1 Part Plaster of Paris with enough water to mix the Plaster of Paris into a pancake batter consistency. Once the water and Plaster of Paris is thoroughly mixed, add it to the paint and thoroughly mix again Trudi.
Christie Wheeler says
If I mix 2 cups of my choice of color in eggshell and add the calcium carbonate will this be my chalk paint? Thank you
Denise says
Yes Christie. For 2 cups of paint, you will add 1 cup of Calcium Carbonate and this will create your chalky paint.
Nancy says
Bought the calcium carbonate last year and can’t wait to try this! Amazon sells calcium carbonate for $7.89 (12 oz) but I actually ordered it from a home brew website for $2.99 (1 lb)
homebrewohio.com/pd-calcium-carbonate-1-lb.cfm Thanks for all of the recipes…I certainly won’t pay the going prices for chalk paint and love mixing my own paints, anyway!
Justin says
I read through the comments looking for my answer but no luck. My friend Maddie and I want to decorate her new room. I’d like to make one of her walls into a chalkboard type deal so she can write stuff, I can write stuff and it’ll all come off. So this leads me to my question; can I use this paint mixture to paint her wall or is it solely intended for furniture? Thank you.
Denise says
You can definitely use these recipes to paint a chalkboard wall Justin! The trick is getting the HMCP recipe SUPER smooth so there is NO trace of powder in your paint (especially if you’re using black).
Julia says
Hi Denise, what an excellent blog! My question is :What is the best and easiest product for varnish on top of the paint? Is it necessary at all or I can leave furniture just painted with HMCP?
Denise says
Thank you Julia! 🙂 If you’re looking for the easiest topcoat to apply, I would recommend the Minwax Wipe-ON Poly. No spraying or brushing required… just a lint free rag. I would also recommend sealing/protecting your HMCP project. CP is very porous and over time can attract dirt & oils from even your hands. Sealing it with a wax or poly will stop this from happening and keep your furniture/project looking marvelous for years to come!
Julia says
Hi Justin, did you end up making the project? What is your experiense? What colour did you use? What is the size of an accent wall? Did you have to finish it with somethig , before writing on it?
Nupur says
Thanks for all the help! I intend to paint my entire guest bedroom furniture with CC chalk paint.
I was wondering if the calcium carbonate Chalk paint can be diluted with water.
Denise says
Yes Nupur, any of the above CP recipes can be diluted/thinned with water.
Lillian says
Hi Denise,
Thank you very much for your great insight about HMCP. My question is do you need to clean the furniture with degreaser product before applying CC? What is the best way to clean the furniture before painting from your experience?
Thanks!
Lillian
Denise says
An all natural method I use is water/vinegar mixture. For really stained pieces I use TSP. Which ever method I use, I always make sure to clean all the residue off with water and make sure the piece is bone dry before painting. Hopes this helps Lillian. 🙂
CAJ says
In case anyone wants to know calcium carbonate is easy to find at beer/wine making supply stores. Food grade calium carbonate is used to change the acidity of wine partway through the fermenting process. This is more pure than the pool chemical or feed store versions (although they will work) and inexpensive. I didn’t want to buy 50 pounds at the feed store. I hope this helps!
Marilyn Hopkins says
Denise, I plan to try the plaster of paris recipe on a piece that has been painted with latex paint.Can I paint over it without sanding first? Thank you
Denise says
Marilyn, if the piece does not have a high gloss sheen (top coat or paint) you should be just fine without sanding. However, if in doubt, try an inconspicuous test area before covering the entire piece.
Joyce Angieri says
Thanks for sharing the recipes. just wanted to let you know, pool supply places have the calcium carbonate. After I’d ordered from Amazon, my daughter informed me that’s what she puts in her pool…..can’t wait to give it a try!
Lavende Lemonade says
Thanks for sharing your trials, I’ve been wondering which recipe to use and this is perfect. The photos are so helpful in choosing the right one!
Renee says
Such great info from your site but talk to me about the paint choice. I tried the POP recipe with a satin paint and didn’t get the best results. Is a flat paint the better option? The mixture constantly needed stirring.
Denise says
Yes Renee, a flat or eggshell latex will produce a nice chalky finish.
Darryl says
I have been using HMCP for a while now and I find it most economical to by a 4 litre tin of flat ceiling white and self mix my own colours into smaller containers.
In Australia we can buy sample pots from 250 – 500ml relatively cheaply and I mix them with the white ceiling paint to get the desired colour. I very rarely do full strength colours, but even a full sample pot mixed with some CalcCarb does the trick.
When I’m finished I normally store my mixed paint in the fridge and it has kept for over 4 weeks when sealed. I also wrap my brush in a rubber glove back folded off my hand and tape to seal around the handle. Ready for painting the next day or week.
Also many thanks for the great comparison. Hard to find good unbiased info like this. Keep up the great work!
Annie says
I put my paint brushes in Glad Wrap Darryl. Does the trick well too. Good to hear about you using HMCP & putting it in fridge – brilliant! I will try that as well.
Lillian McDonald says
I can hardly believe my luck in stumbling upon this website. Gave me the inspiration I needed to finish up some furniture sitting in the garage. I’m going to try the CC recipe, get a very good brush, flat laytex paint from SW and I’m going to become a huge fan of salvagedinspirations.com
Denise says
I’m happy you ‘stumbled’ upon salvagedinspirations.com too Lillian! Welcome… and all the best with your project! ~Denise
Lurie says
I have an old dresser that is currently painted with an oil based paint. Do I need to sand and prime with oil base primer before I paint the piece with your CC recipe?
Denise says
Excellent question Lurie! There is no need to prime with oil based primer however if it’s painted in a shiny oil based paint, it may be beneficial to give it a light sanding before apply the CC Recipe.
Nancy says
Denise, I have been painting & selling furniture with HMCP for 2 years and came up with the same POP recipe that you are using. I have never tried the others, but so appreciated your organized and informative post on comparing them all! I started using Briwax and/or Johnsons as it is less than half the cost of Annie’s wax, and I do like the smell of it! And for those new to CP of any kind…I have NEVER found one coat enough to get a professional finish, and I know this is a selling point for some of the chalk paint companies. I find one coat to look like a first grader got ahold of it! Always do two or three coats!! Denise…your pieces look fantastic! Thank you again for all the useful info in your listing!
Denise says
Hi Nancy! This is such an EXCELLENT point you make and I couldn’t agree more. I have NEVER achieved full coverage/professional finish with one coat of Chalk/Mineral Paints; Brand Name(s) OR Homemade! And in my experience, I often need to apply MORE coats of the Brand Name CP’s than the Homemade Chalk Recipes.
Lisa says
I used plaster of paris I wanted a solid black when I added the plaster of paris to the paint it turned the paint dark gray. I went back to my paint store and they put straight black into my paint. It made it a darker black. I will paint tomorrow and let you know the outcome.
Caco says
Hi Denise! Found your blog after my foray into chalk paint/googling for recipes, great page!! (My experience here: http://lifeisabeachcm.blogspot.com/2014/04/all-this-shabby-talk-about-chalk-paint.html ) After a successful dive with a brand name, I’m preparing to take on a house-load of birch paneling that I plan to chalk white, wax, distress a tad for some show-through, and wax again. This will likely take a few weeks to complete, so two questions: 1. Would you recommend the POP or the CaCO3 (yes, like me!) recipe, and 2. Can you suggest a better, organic wax option that smells nice and holds up the same–might I even add some natural essential oil to the paste for scent? TIA!
Denise says
Hi Caco! The Calcium Carbonate recipe is my fav however it may be more economical for you to use the Plaster of Paris recipe for your paneling. Either or will look great and give the chalky/distressed effect you’re after. As for organic waxes, I really like the all natural CeCe Caldwell soft wax and Annie Sloan is also buttery soft (although oddly enough I haven’t used it yet). Briwax, Fiddes & Sons, Johnson’s or Minwax can all have an essential oil added for scent! I’ll be sure to drop by your blog in the near future to see how things are coming along!
Natasha says
Hi Denise…thanks so much for all of your helpful info!! I am going to try my luck at your homemade recipes. My question to you is what is your favourite wax to use with the homemades and where do you purchase them?
Denise says
I really liked the All Natural CeCe Caldwell Wax which can be purchased at retail shops through the country. Here’s where you can find a retailer near you Natasha ~ cececaldwells.com/map-of-retailers/. For a less expensive option, Minwax Furniture Paste works well. There are so many great waxes on the market and they all work well with these HMCP Recipes!
Natasha says
Thanks so much. I am using a wax that I bought with my Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and the smell really bothers me. I love the finish though so I’m hoping for something more natural with less odour and the same smooth finish/durability…not asking for too much lol.
monica says
for your #1 choice did you use the entire container?
Denise says
It depends on how much paint you are mixing Monica, but no, I did not use the entire container. I like to mix my HMCP recipes one cup at a time and just mix as much as I need for the project at hand.
Zoe Flockhart says
Hi, I’ve just found this
1000g Calcium carbonate powder CaCo3 it says used in the paper industry (coating paper and cardboard, filler),marine or tropical aquarium to bring the higher level of Calcium, in the plastics and levelling compounds industry, in the manufacture of paints and varnishes, plasters and glues, in the production of floor covering, cleaning agents, sealants and as a filler in the ceramics, glass and rubber industry. Is this the right stuff?
And how much do I mix with 1L of paint? Is latex the same as emulsion?
Denise says
Zoe, I’m not sure if this Calcium Carbonate is the same as the one I use but yes, latex is the same as emulsion. To mix a liter of paint you will require a 1/2 liter of Calcium Carbonate. I do find it easier to mix in smaller batches though… I usually mix by the cup.
Karin says
I am only a “newbie” and observer…but I had just a couple of things to share that I tried and they did work 🙂
First, I had a tub of “dog show chalk” AKA “grooming powder) (purchased from Winner’s Circle online but other dog show suppliers also carry it) – it had been sitting in my closet unopened FOREVER … I used it to whip up the HMCP and it did a great job (thank goodness). (This was just another option as I am not sure how the price lines up with the calcium carbonate HMCP that you had made).
Second, I discovered Floetrol…a paint conditioner additive I found at Menard’s. It prevents brush strokes and roller marks (and since I am only starting out painting I figured I could use all the help I could get.) So I added the Floetrol and once each item was dry – no brush strokes and no roller marks, just a soft beautiful finish. (Floetrol is for latex paint, Pentetrol is made for oil based paint). (An interesting side note – when I asked about the Floetrol at Menard’s, the clerk said the only people who had ever inquired about it before were all contractors/professional painters …)
Thank you for taking the time to share all of your experiences and experiments – they make for great reading and give lots of insight and direction as well!
Cathy says
Hi Denise, Thanks so much for posting these. I purchased a 50 pound bag of calcium carbonate at a feed store (Yes I said 5o lb! :)). I tried it using your recipe for 2 to 1 and with flat latex and it worked perfectly! The 50 lb bag cost $7.99 and I have enough for the next 100 years! LOL. I know you said food grade but this is very fine and looks great. I did use an electric hand mixer to mix and mixed for quite long. I used 2 coats. I plane to redo my antique oak sideboard and chairs next! Thanks again.
Denise says
Happy to hear it Cathy and thanks for leaving an update!
Terri Golden says
Cathy, was the Calcium Carbonate listed as Lime (95% NaCL- on the bag NaLCbrite)? Just curious since I found it at Tractor supply for 6.99 50lbs. However its not 100% pure NaCl but has Calcium Carbonate (CACO3) Minimum 95%, Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3) Maximum 2.5%. Just curious since I am a newbie to painted cottage furniture and need any advice available. Thanks Terri
sherry says
I am also a newbie to this and I was curious about the feed store calcium carbonate. It has other ingredients in it. So was wondering if its ok to use.