After spending $45 and a half day drive on a quart of brand name chalk paint, I was determined to find the BEST Homemade Chalk Paint Recipes for a cost efficient alternative.
If you’re interested in mixing your own chalk paint to save yourself time and money, read on because I discovered a bunch of interesting stuff I wasn’t made aware of on other blogs.
I tried four (4) of the most popular Homemade Chalk Paint Recipes and the results surprised me and left me with a hands-down fave! In sharing my experience, I hope it helps you decide which DIY recipe is right for you.
So let’s start my countdown…. 😉
Baking Soda Recipe
2/3 cup Paint
1/3 cup Baking Soda
Mix really well
My least favourite is the baking soda recipe.
When applying this Homemade Chalk Paint, (HMCP) it had a very gritty texture despite a thorough mixing. I could actually see the tiny granulars in the paint as I was applying each coat.
I was worried it wouldn’t sand down properly, but it turned out just fine…. whew! Here’s what it looks like after the final sanding/distressing.
Although Baking Soda Chalk Paint is listed last on my countdown, it’s perfect if you’re trying to achieve an old weathered, distressed “country” looking piece of furniture.
Deana at Alchemy Fine Living has a great video showcasing a dresser painted with the Baking Soda Chalk Paint Recipe.
Baking Soda Chalk Paint Cost – $1.69 for a box of baking soda which can be used for another 5 single chalk paint recipes + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – No time was spent on the purchase because I always have baking soda in my kitchen. 2-3 minutes to mix it thoroughly into the paint.
Application – Grainy look and feel even when mixed thoroughly.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or sanding required and great coverage. Good coverage after 2 coats but I applied 3.
Odour – No odour other than the latex paint it’s mixed with.
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex. Not as easy as 100% green brand name chalk paint.
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as brand name chalk paint (ie distressing with dampened cloth).
Finish – The finished look is chalky but not quite as smooth as brand name chalk paint.
Non-Sanded Grout Recipe
1 cup Paint
2 Tbsp Unsanded Grout
Water to mix Grout
Number 3 on my list is the Unsanded Grout Recipe.
I mixed the grout with the water, then once smooth, added it to the paint. It looked and applied like a brand name chalk paint. It dried fast (within 1/2 hour), and the finish was just as “chalky” as the store bought.
It had a bit of a weird odour…ok…really weird. But because it was applying so beautifully, I wasn’t bothered by it too much.
Fabulous! … so why is it listed No.3 on my list?
This DIY Homemade Grout version started to thicken up while I was applying my first coat…. it turned more like thick icing than paint.
I had to keep mixing it while I was painting and eventually had to add more water because it was too thick. The next day it had really congealed and more water was needed. Take a look… it just kept turning into a thick mess!
Here is the before and after. The table on the left is painted with Baking Soda HMCP and the table on the right is painted with Unsanded Grout HMCP. Can you see a difference?
Unsanded Grout Chalk Paint Cost – $17.99 for a large 10lb bag which will last a zillion single recipes + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – Easy to find Non-Sanded Grout on-line or at any Lowe’s, Home Depot, Rona, Canadian Tire or any on-line home reno store. Note – Grout comes in different colours. You want to buy white unsanded grout. Why? If you add a coloured grout to your paint, it may alter your paint’s hue. 3-5 minutes to measure and mix it thoroughly into the water and paint.
Application – Fabulous… until it started thickening up. Then time was spent mixing it and adding additional water to obtain the right consistency.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or prep required and it had full coverage after 3 coats. The more water I added, the thinner the coverage.
Odour – It had a weird smell. I’d love to explain it to you but I don’t know what to compare it to?
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as with a brand name chalk paint (ie rubbing with dampened cloth).
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex (brand name chalk paint cleans up much easier)
Finish – The finished look is exactly like a brand name chalk paint. Smooth, chalky and lovely.
Plaster of Paris Recipe
3 parts Paint
1 part Plaster of Paris
Water to mix
My number 2 pick is the Plaster of Paris recipe.
I made a smooth paste with the plaster of paris and water before mixing it into the paint. When mixed well, it was silky smooth and applied just as nicely as brand name chalk paint.
The second day it did thicken a little and appeared a little grainy, but after a thorough mixing it was fine.
The left over paint was stored in a glass pickle jar and used again 2 weeks later.
Plaster of Paris Chalk Paint Cost – $6.oo for a large box which will last for a looong time + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – Easy to find Plaster of Paris on-line or at any Lowes, Home Depot, Rona, Canadian Tire or craft store. 3-5 minutes to measure and mix it thoroughly into the water and paint.
Application – Fabulous! The consistency was great and it applied like brand name chalk paint.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or prep required. Applied 3 coats for compete coverage.
Odour – None other than the latex paint used.
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as with a brand name chalk paint (ie rubbing with dampened cloth).
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex (brand name chalk paint clean up is much easier)
Finish – The finished look is exactly like a brand name chalk paint. Smooth, chalky and lovely.
I used the Plaster of Paris Chalk Paint Recipe to re-purpose an old sewing table into a little girl’s desk. What do you think?
Calcium Carbonate
2 parts paint
1 part Calcium Carbonate
My hands down #1 choice was the Calcium Carbonate Recipe…which makes good sense since Calcium Carbonate is chalk!
It mixed into the paint easily, had the perfect consistency, coverage was fantastic, dried within 30 minutes, AND left me with a perfect chalky finish. I stored the left over paint in a yogurt container and it kept the same consistency for days. (I did stir it vigorously each time before use.)
The only downfall to my #1 choice was I had a difficult time finding it! Not many stores sell it in powder form and the pill form won’t work even if you grind them up.
My local pharmacy ordered it in for me and I picked it up 4 days later. Since then, I’ve found a good grade Calcium Carbonate On-line and will be ordering from the comfort of my home. 🙂
As I mentioned above, the Plaster of Paris recipe was used to re-purpose the sewing table into a desk, but I used the Calcium Carbonate Chalk Paint to paint the matching chair. Can you tell the difference?
Calcium Carbonate Chalk Paint Cost – $11.99 for a 500g container which I’m almost finished. I’ve painted 1 chair, a large desk (NOT the one shown above) and 2 large chalk board frames. I have enough left over for another small/medium project. Out of all four(4) recipes, Calcium Carbonate is the least economical. However, comparing it to brand name chalk paints, the cost difference is still pennies on the dollar in this recipes favour! + cost of latex paint
Time Involved – Took me 2 weeks to track this stuff down! I searched Shoppers Drug Mart, Health Food Stores, Organic Stores and finally asked at my local pharmacy. Next time, I’ll be ordering it on-line! 3-5 minutes to measure and mix it thoroughly into the paint.
Application – Fabulous…exactly like brand name chalk paints.
Adhesion & Coverage – Great! No priming or prep required and the coverage was fantastic. It dried faster than the Plaster of Paris (within 20 minutes) because no water was added.
Odour – None, other than the latex paint used.
Distressing – Requires sanding. Not as effortless as with a brand name chalk paint (ie rubbing with dampened cloth).
Clean Up – Cleans up like regular latex (brand name chalk paint clean up is much easier)
Finish – The finished look is exactly like a brand name chalk paint. Smooth, chalky and beautiful!
So the Best Homemade Chalk Paint Recipe… Calcium Carbonate!
Although these HMCP recipes are not 100% green, the coverage and finish are VERY comparable to brand name chalk paints. In researching all my options, I also learned Wall Texture, Limestone and Whitening Powder can be used to make chalk paint.
I wish I knew who to give credit to for the above recipes. Whoever originally came up with them… thank-you… absolutely BRILLIANT!!!!
Still undecided which DIY recipe you’re going to try? You can read more HMCP Tips here.
If you have a HMCP experience you’d like to share or have any questions, feel free to leave a comment and I’ll get right back to you!
Enjoy your day & happy painting.
Denise
I just painted my first piece with DIY chalk paint (do not know recipe, it is a secret!!). I bought the Americana paste wax from Home Depot. I know using the wax will be a lot of work. I am very familiar with polyacrylic and know what that will look like. My question is: just what is this business about using a wax as a sealer or top coat or both? It appears that was is not a must. Why use it at all? What is the benefit? Is the final appearance different from any polyacrylic matte?
Using wax is NOT a ‘must’ but many do like to use wax to seal chalk/mineral paints. Wax absorbs into the porous paint and gives the piece a beautiful sheen. I’ve used wax and I’ve used poly… either or works Linda and it’s all personal preference. Since you already purchased a wax, I encourage you to give it a try to see if you like the look and feel. 🙂
MAY SOUND STUPID BUT YOU SAID 3 PARTS PAINT AND 1 PART POP. I AM CURRENTLY USING 1/2 cup pop, 1/2 cup water and 2 cups Paint. GOT THIS RECIPE ON PINTEREST. IS THIS A GOOD RECIPE?
WHAT EXACTLY IS YOUR RECIPE CUT DOWN IN CUPS TO MAKE IT CLEARER FOR ME? ALSO IF I CUT DOWN ON THE WATER, CAN I ADD A FEW DROPS OF MICHAELS 2 OZ. ACRALIC PAINT TO CHANGE THE-COLOR?
THANK YOU
Hi there CeCe. To make one cup of HMCP with the Plaster of Paris it would be 3/4 cup paint to 1/4 cup Plaster of Paris. Mix the plaster of paris with just enough water to make a silky smooth paste (add a tablespoon at a time) and then mix it thoroughly into your paint. Yes, you can add a little acrylic to tint. 🙂
Also, do you use food grade or does it matter? I found both on Amazon.
Rebecca
When you say that you had no prep work involved using the plaster of paris formula, does that mean you didn’t even sand the piece and the paint will stick well?
On most pieces no sanding is required. If your piece is shiny/glossy or you’re uncertain… a light sanding never hurts.
I just bought a cabinet that I want to try chalk paint on, and if it works well, I may paint my dining room table with chalk paint also (the cabinet will be a bright color, and I think I’ll do a soft white for the table). I don’t like the idea of the wax, especially if I’ll have to re-wax it regularly, or sand if I want to re-paint. And I’m allergic to oil based paint products. What are other options I could use? Is there a water based polyurethane that would be incredibly durable for a family with young kids?
Minwax Poly (also comes in Wipe-On) Varathane or General Finishes High Performance Top Coat are 3 water-based products that work great!
Hi Denise! Thank you so much for taking your time to provide us with all your tips! I just have a simple question: is calcium carbonate the same as calcium carbonate lime stone? Every time I look online to purchase some, it always appears as calcium carbonate lime stone so I haven’t bought any because I’m not sure if they’re the same thing. Thank you!
I think they are slightly different Maria. I use the “people-grade” calcium carbonate that people can ingest as a supplement.
Thanks for all the info. Where and what did you use to seal your peices? Would this be practical for a dining table that will be used every day? Again, thanks for posting this info. It has blown my mind.
My pleasure Ryan and yes HMCP is very practical for a high traffic dining table as it provides great adhesion and dries hard. For a table getting use everyday, I would stay away from the wax and topcoat with a polycrylic or polyurathane. Apply 3+ coats so you have a super strong surface.
Hello! I am thinking of trying this on a vanity, dresser and side tables. I like the antique look of sanding down the edges and I plan on using your POP recipe. What order should I go in as far as the sanding and wax/poly finish? Also, what should I do to make it the smoothest possible?
To make pieces super smooth, sanding in-between coats and the final sanding is the key. The order is sand (if the table is shiny/glossy) paint, sand, paint (repeat until you have full coverage) then sand to distress and finish. Once all this is complete apply your wax/poly finish Ashley. (Some people do wax and then sand to cut down on dust but I always apply the topcoat as the very final step).
Love all of your great info and hints! I am about to paint an old window from my parents home to use as a picture frame. I have another one almost ready to go for the bathroom mirror. I had already bought plaster of paris before I came upon our blog, so I am going with it. I can’t wait!!! I am using left over paint and I wondered if I could use small amounts of acrylic paint from the craft store (I have a ton!) to slightly darken the tone of the paint I want to use? I have a grey blue paint and would like it a little darker blue. Tnanks so much!
Most definitely Terri… you will have no problem tinting with small amounts of acrylic. 🙂
loved this site. I do have a question: I recently purchased a pint of DIY chalk paint from a gal. Due to scheduling problems, I believe the paint sat in her car for a couple of days. We live in southern Arizona where it is 100+ degress. Needless to say, the paint was solid but she told me it would get back to normal in an hour or so. It never did. It looks like a jar of mushy dried up squishy sponges. Does the heat do this? Seems like a silly question, unless she sold me a really old jar, but I don’t think she would do that.
A great question Linda! ALL PAINT does not do well (this includes chalk/mineral paints) in extreme hot or cold temperatures. If stored in excessive heat or freezing cold, the paint will change consistency and be unusable. It’s best to store paint in a temperature controlled environment with low-humidity.
I bought an old buffet for $40 and just went to purchase name brand CP and wax and the total was $109. Way too much! I am going to try your number 1 recipe. Do you know anything about the colored wax and if you can make it or purchase a cheaper brand? I am following a pinterest DIY and she used CP, clear and colored wax.
Thanks!
Here’s how I tint my own wax Kim. It’s very cost effective and works great! https://salvagedinspirations.com/tinting-furniture-wax-with-paint/
I am planning to use chalk paint in my kitchen. I have some panelled cupboard doors which I intend to decoupage with wallpaper. If I coat the paper with varnish can I then give it all a buff with wax. Also wondered whether I need to paint the area that will be covered with wallpaper
Hi Cherie! It’s totally up to you if you want to paint the paneled cupboard doors that you intend to decoupage but it’s not necessary. As for waxing over varnish, yes you can but I would personally topcoat everything in a varnish or polyurathane/polycrylic instead of using a wax. This would be a more durable protection for such a high traffic area.
Hi Denise,
Thank you for your recipes. I have been toying with the idea of painting some of my old furniture and was researching chalk paint when I came across your blog. I have just finished a coat of PoP chalk paint, on two old occasional tables, in a lovely beige/clay colour. The plan is to paint white next coat and then distress a little. I found everything I needed here in Melbourne at sooooo little compared to buying the ‘real stuff’. I think I am hooked…..
Do you recommend waxing after painting with the plaster of paris recipe? (Like you would normally do after using a name brand chalk paint?) Or is it not necessary?
Yes Alyssa. I do recommend protecting your piece with a wax or poly… exactly as you would with a brand name CP.
Being a home chemist I would like to offer your readers a tip about calcium carbonate. Collect White seashells, dissolve in hydrochloric acid, filter, add sodium bicarbonate until fizzing stops, filter, and allow to evaporate in sun or anywhere warm. The white precipitate is pure calcium carbonate. Cheap and an endless supply. If you need more information I would be happy to help out.
Yes, I usually use Shabby paint with the vax and revax and I know they can be watered down for a spray gun. When making my own CP, I would use the CC recipe, how much do I need to water down to use in a spray gun? Thanks so much for all this great info.
The exact amount of water to thin your CC recipe for your spray gun will depend on your paints thickness, sprayer, and nozzle size. I usually thin my paint between 15-20% for a nice flow Susan. I keep mixing in a little water until my CC Paint Recipe looks like a melted milk-shake.
can you tell me what kind of brushes you used? Looking forward to trying the plaster of paris recipe.
thanks
I like Purdy brushes however I’ve used inexpensive dollar store brushes and everything in-between…. they all work.
Can you please clarify the poly finish? Will the Min Wax hand rubbed poly work?
Yes Steven, I’ve used Minwax Wipe-On and it works nicely.
I just used your recipe for chalk paint with Plaster of Paris to paint plant stand that I use as a bedside table in my granddaughter’s room. Turned out great. Thanks for the recipes.
I have been making these paints for over 30 years. i would never add a “paint” to the mix. Calcium carbonate in varied forms: chalk,oyster shell,lime,limestone,marble. What you want is hydrated lime from a masonry or building supply store,do not use garden lime (Miracle Lime for plastering in my area)
50 lbs about $25
Add casein(milk curds)maybe a little linseed oil. Applied outside these paints are not only durable, but they simply wear away(mineralizing your soil) so they never need scraping -just reapply
I am about yo go buy the paint to mix with the calcium carbonate. Which brand and type of paint do you recommend. I don’t want a distressed look so what do you recommend I do–wax or poly top coat? The piece is a dresser we will be using in our nursery for a changing table. Thanks for your help!
For a change table which may be frequently wiped down, I would recommend a poly topcoat. Strong and durable and you won’t have to re-apply as you would a wax. As for paint brands, I like Sherwin Williams and Behr but any brand will work. A flat/eggshell will provide the “chalkiest” finish.
Thanks for your help! One last question now that I have the changing table painted… if I put the Poly top coat on will it take the gritty/sandy feeling away? I would prefer something to make it more smooth to the touch. Thanks again for your wonderful blog!
If you give your painted change table a light sanding with an extra fine sand-paper, and then sand between each coat of poly, your table will be silky smooth Kasey! 🙂
Thanks for all of your advice!
Was wondering if after applying wax to your piece and want to make it a more durable finish can an acrylic top coat adhere to the wax?
No Pam. After the wax is applied you can not put another sealer/topcoat on the wax.
Hi Denise this is a very new thing for me. I am from Ireland and was wondering about the wax. As the types of waxes you mentioned does not ring a bell. Should it be a thick consistency or could i use an oily liquid wax?
Hmmmm… I’m not familiar with the products in Ireland Samantha. Here in North America, our furniture waxes that we use for sealer/topcoat usually have a thicker consistency. I would read the label of your “oil” wax carefully (or ask an associate from wherever you purchase the product) to ensure it can be used to seal/protect furniture. If there are no appropriate waxes available to you, a water based poly will work nicely too. 🙂
Use Annie Sloan wax. I know you can buy that in Ireland. It’s not cheap but it dries completely clear and won’t discolor the paint. Annie Sloan is one of the queens of chalk paint.
thanks…best info thus far on making your own chalk paint. which of the 4 choices would you use on fabrics
Great questions Selina! I haven’t tried any of these recipes on fabric. My guess would be the Calcium Carbonate recipe because CC is chalk but again… I haven’t tried so can’t say for sure. If you give it a go I would LOVE to hear how it turns out for you! 🙂
I am going to try thank you for all your imput!
I live in Australia and have not heard of latex paint – is this a water based or oil based paint/
Hello Diane in Australia! 🙂 Yes, latex is water based.
I have lots of left over paints. gloss,semi gloss,satin, eggshell, flat…….can these recipes be used on all or most of them to make chalk paint?
Yes Dawn, these left over paints will work nicely. Personally I would avoid using the glossy paints (although I’ve used semi-gloss and it turned out beautiful…just not quite as “chalky”) but yes to all others for sure!
Does the calcium carbonate / plaster of paris change the shade of the base paint. Should I purchase a darker base shade so that the white will lighten it up?
No Colleen, none of the above recipes should change the color of your paint. If however, you purchase a dark tint, make sure the chalk ingredient is mixed THOROUGHLY into the paint otherwise white ‘specks’ may be visible after sanding.
Hi, if you say 2 parts paint and 1 part calcium carbonate, do i understand correctly that you mix for instance 2 cups paint and 1 cup dry cc or do you first mix the cc with water – and what consistency?
Yes exactly Elna, 2 cups paint to 1 cup (dry…no water!) Calcium Carbonate.
I cannot wait to tell my sister about your “invention!!!” She wanted to purchase the paint for a large project… Now she can make her own, cost efficient!!! Thank you !
Trying this for the first time! First coat done. Just waiting to dry. Will let you know how I go. Australia. 🙂
how do you add color to your paint?
Faye, you purchase tinted paint (in whatever color you like) and then add the chalking ingredient.
Hi, what a great find. Thanks for sharing all the experiments and results. I’m getting ready to push the buy button on calcium carbonate. I understand the more expensive, popular, off the shelf version doesn’t require any prep. That seems hard to believe. Have you had to do much prep? It’s very appealing to be able to just get right to it. I’m going to tackle a head board. thanks for the advice.
Hi Nancy! The majority of the time, no prep will be required for Brand-Name OR DIY Chalk/Mineral Paints. They adhere beautifully to almost any surface. Having said that, if a piece of furniture is super glossy/shiny, I do give it a light sanding prior to painting. Good luck with your project(s)! 🙂
I’m thinking of using an old blender to mix my chalk paint. Would that be too much? or should I just get an old electric hand beater?
You could try the blender Linda but depending on the settings, the paint may end up with a lot of air/froth in it. I’m super happy with my $10 hand blender… works perfect!
All I want to say is “Thank you!!” You did all the testing and reasoning. I am exciting to try this….definitely want to try the expensive stuff but I want to be able to use other colors or spur of the moment uses as well. Good job!!
I LOVE your CC recipe. I didn’t even bother with the other methods as it was perfect. Sanded/distressed beautifully too. My question is, have you tried to use less CC? I found another recipe that used 1 cup of paint and 2 TBS of CC, 1 TBS of water…. BIG difference than yours. I measured your method 8oz paint, 4 oz of CC. I only added water a few weeks later as it had thickened up a lot for another project. I also measured on my food scale 🙂 wanted it to be perfect
I’m following you on FB, love youtr posts.
Hi Natalie! There are many variations on HMCP Recipes and I’ve just been sticking with what works for me and looks the very best on my projects. I’m guessing less Calcium Carbonate would work… maybe it just wouldn’t be quite as “chalky”.Thanks for the FB follow!
Hi, I spray painted a stool and totally dislike how it looks. Do I sand it and apply chalk paint? And does the paint need any sealer? It’d be good if I could make it waterproof or water resistant. Is that possible with chalk paint?
I’m new at this, so thanks so much for advice and a BIG thanks for the recipes.
Morgot yes, yes and yes! 🙂 You can sand your previously painted stool and apply a HCMP. Because Chalk/Mineral Paint is very porous, it does require a topcoat/protection. If you search your local hardware store they can help you find a spar urethane or marine poly/urethane if you want it to be 100% waterproof.
Have you heard of using the chalk from Home Depot that they use for chalk lines? I have heard it is a great way to go and much cheaper. I had to order it only to get it white in color but I got 5 pounds for $9.99 with free shipping to the store. I am very curious to see if it will work. Also, do you think I will be okay making it with craft acrylic paint?
I’ve never tried the chalk from HomeDepot Kris but acrylic paint should work just fine.
The 2:1 ratio with the calcium carbonate, how do you measure that when one is a powder and one is a liquid? By weight or by volume?
By volume Diane. Whatever you use to measure the paint… use to measure the Calcium Carbonate even though one is a powder and one is a liquid.
I used the plaster recipe on a prefinished particle board table and the paint will not adhere. I haven’t put any wax on the table, but did put 2 coats of chalk paint. I used the Valspar latex form Lowes and am at a loss how to get the paint to adhere. Lowes sales person said there was nothing I could do except sand and then reapply, which I am not willing to do. Any suggestion? If I apply paste will that help it to seal? This is my first experience with chalk paint. Thanks for your help.
Sorry to hear this Kathye. How frustrating after you’ve put in all that work! I’ve heard of some people having the very same issue when using Valspar with HMCP Recipes and unfortunately, the Lowes sales person is correct. To get a “no-worry” permanent finish, sanding and reapplying would be the way to go. If you seal a paint job that has not adhered, it will most likely not hold up for the long term. If you have any other questions Kathye…feel free to email me anytime.
Kathye, I primed my laminate prefinished particle board piece with Zinsser 1-2-3 water based primer ($18/gallon at Wal-Mart) and my paint adhered well. Sorry to hear about your experience. Once you get off the old paint, use the primer & you should get good results.
Great reaserch! Thank you!
What about if I want to mix a color like prime red? Or antique green? Any Ideas. Do you think the color would chance?. Looking forward to hear from you.
The color should not change however the darker the color, the more attention to mixing is required. Because the Calcium Carbonate, Plaster of Paris and other ingredients are a white powder, if any of these ingredients are not THOROUGHLY mixed in to the paint, it may show up as white specs in a darker paint. I use an old inexpensive hand blender to mix all the above recipes. 🙂
I found using a kitchen strainer or sifter is the key to get all the chunks out of my plaster powder. Made a mess the first time I mixed it up and painted. Ended up doing another layer of paint after sanding to get rid of white bumps. Otherwise I am extremely happy using some paint I had on hand and making it into a chalk paint!
Just trash picked an old trunk and can’t wait to paint it. Thanks for all of the great tips!
I am getting ready to try my first project with chalk paint and came across your information on recipes and tips. It was very helpful. I was wondering if you could tell me what wax you prefer for the finish? The project does not require a hard durable finish. Thanks so much for the information.
Hi Melissa. To seal my HMCP pieces I like CeCe Caldwell’s all natural wax. It’s very soft and easy to apply but not as cost efficient as some other waxes $28+. For a more cost efficient wax, Minwax Furniture Paste works well at $12. The only thing with the Minwax is it has a slight orange hue, so if you are using it on a stark white piece, test an area so it doesn’t change the color once applied.
I used CeCe Caldwell Waxing Cream on the CC recipe and it was perfect! Actually better than the CeCe paint if I say so my self 🙂
Hi Denise,
I used the calcium carbonate mix and dresser came out beautiful. HOWEVER, I totally ruined my piece with a water based/oil modified poly (not polycrylic) which turned my peachy pink an ugly yellow. It was the only one my hardware store had which is why I assumed it was the right one. How can I fix this without completely starting over? I used 3 coats of this awful stuff! Any advice is greatly appreciated. 🙂
Yaaay for the CCRecipe and YIKES for the oil modified Poly. Dayna, unfortunately I can’t think of any way to “fix” this other than to sand your topcoat off and reapply a wax or non-yellowing poly. So sorry…I’ve been in your shoes and I know how frustrating and disappointing this is after all the work that went into it. If anyone reading this has any suggestions..please chime in!
How about using whatever it is as a base coat? Maybe a turquoise or aqua top coat very lightly sanded so the yellow shows through?
Love your page – had a go with some really cheap basic value grout and some left over ‘latex’ (in UK we call it vinyl or emulsion) paint mixed from several ends of half empty tins. I only had a couple of small projects to do so thought I should be OK. Turns out some grout is quick drying which may have been your problem – this lot went on like a dream, stayed ok in a plastic pot in a sealed bag overnight – just needed a quick stir in the morning for another coat. A week later it is still fluid and my bathroom mirror frame, shelf and hooks which were formerly orange varnished pine are now storm cloud grey and look amazing. The wax which didn’t impress me on my first go worked better when I let it dry after brushing on first before I buffed it to a sheen. Now in happy bunny mode – and slightly addicted – nothing in my house is safe from painting – except perhaps the cat!
Thanks for the response. I was afraid you’d say that. 🙁 So can I apply new coats of chalk paint over the poly that’s there or do you think sanding is required? It’s already in my daughter’s room and it was pretty tough to get the dresser in there without 2 huge chips. I’d hate to try to sand in her room. Thanks for all the tips and advice!
It should be just fine painting over your poly finish Dayna. If it’s a glossy finish you’ve applied, a light sanding may be beneficial but you can always paint a small inconspicuous area to see if it is adhering before tackling the entire piece.
I have yet to find any poly that is totally clear – all has a slightly yellow finish even tho listed as clear. Any suggestions?
Lately I’ve been using General Finishes High Performance Topcoat (water-based). Strong and no yellow finish.
I bought the Calcium Carbonate on Amazon. 1 lb bag was $8.99 and I received in 2 days.
what paint do you use ? is it matt emulsion paint used for painting walls?
Or is it eggshell paint for painting wood ?
what can be used to seal the finished result on a dining table?
Either or will work Martine and for a high traffic dining table I would recommend a poly topcoat.
Hi Denise,
Thank you so much for your incredibly detailed explanations and tips. Your work is truly gorgeous. I have been experimenting with paint and glazes and chalk paints for the last 2 years and have had some lovely results. Lately though, I’ve been experiencing some truly wacky chalk paint “seizures,” my term for paint which ends up like mud glop and not liquidy. Interestingly I tried the same paint with plaster of paris, baking soda and grout and all three seized up. I used a certain brand of paint (Sherwin Williams) for each and the same thing happened. So I used a different brand and it was fine. I went back to the former SW brand but a different shade (bought around the same time) and the same exact seizing happened. THEN I lurked around my samples of paint and found a “older” can of SW paint that I picked up at a church thrift shop and whipped up a batch of HMCP and it worked like a dream and didn’t seize. So, I am deducing that there are certain brands of paint out there in the nederwold of DIY that have perhaps been very recently reformulated to actually not work as HMCP? I wouldn’t be surprised if these certain brands curiously came out with their own CP? I don’t know if I am chasing a paint conspiracy theory (kidding) but I really could not figure out (still can’t) what went wrong… Be well. 🙂
Interesting Allison and thanks for sharing! I’ve heard others say they’ve had some challenges mixing DIY ChalkP with Valspar (Lowe’s Brand) but this is the first I’ve heard with Sherwin Williams. Peculiar when you get different results with the same brand isn’t it? Could it possibly be the way the paint was stored.. temperature maybe?
Using a latex paint without either primer or acrylic in it should solve the ‘turn to mud’ problem. Good luck!
I’ve been using Valspar from Lowe’s and so far haven’t had any issues. I’ve painted several items using Valspar and PoP (all we have in the town I live in now is Lowe’s so I’m pretty much stuck) and all have turned out great. I used to live in a larger city and getting Annie Sloane was easy, but now it’s a forty-mile drive one way and it’s hardly worth it. All these tips are great!
Thanks for this information. I was planning to try this with some Sherwin Williams I had on hand. I’ll be sure to test before trying to mix a whole batch!
Denise, you said to store the unused chalk paint in a glass jar. Would a quart sized new paint can work also?
I am anxious to try this, but will not distress afterwards. I liked your sewing table/desk!
Thanks!
Once mixed these chalky paint recipes will not last indefinitely Lois but I’ve used glass, plastic and cans. So long as they are sealed air tight, there should be no problem.
Did you apply wax as the finish for all of these?
Hi Starla, if my memory is serving me correctly the two tables with the baskets I used a Wipe-On Poly and the rest were waxed.
I found that the finish seemed harder with the unsanded grout. Also tried some joint compund (mostly lime which is almost the same as calcium carbonate) and that turned out very well. I have even been adding it to first coat when painting a wall as it seems more opaque.
Roberta, what is the paint/compound ratio that you used? Thanks!