Ask any professional furniture painter what their least favorite part of restyling is, and they will most likely say SANDING. It’s messy. It’s time consuming. It’s mindless work. True fact – when I first started salvaging furniture, I cringed at the mere feel of sandpaper. So, it’s not surprising that one of the most FAQ’s I receive is: How can I paint furniture without sanding?
Before I share a few ways to avoid this messy task {I’ll be sharing some products I’ve tested over the years}, here’s a vintage desk I just restyled. This wood desk was NOT sanded prior to painting and it was NOT painted with Chalk Paint.
This post contains affiliate links for convenience. You can see my full disclosure here.
This post contains affiliate links for convenience. You can see my full disclosure Here are 5 Ways To Paint Furniture Without Sanding:
1. USE A CHALK PAINT
This is hands-down the most common and well known way to paint pretty much anything without sanding. The huge mass appeal of chalk paint is not only the gorgeous matte finish, but the no prep promise. I’d argue that chalk paints are the cornerstone of the painted furniture industry as we know it today. Since Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paints have become so popular, there have been numerous brands of chalky type paints to hit the market.
A few brands I’ve tried and tested {that have amazing adhering power} are:
Annie Sloan • CeCe Caldwell • Bluestone House • DIY Chalk Paint • General Finishes Chalk Style
2. USE A MINERAL PAINT
Mineral paint is very similar to chalk style paints in that no prep or prime is required. It sticks to pretty much anything. As an added bonus, brands like Fusion are so durable, it’s waterproof, stain proof and doesn’t even require a topcoat.
My go-to mineral paints are: • Fusion • Dixie Belle
3. USE MILK PAINT + BONDING AGENT
As I already mentioned, the antique desk in this post was not prep-sanded. I used Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint in ‘Trophy’ mixed with equal parts bonding agent. Bonding Agent is a milky substance that works like a primer to help adhere the milk paint to your project. It’s easy enough to use and the grip is amazing. Mix equal parts bonding agent into your already mixed milk paint. Including the Bonding Agent is only required on the first coat.
The brands of milk paint I regularly use are:
Miss Mustard Seed • Homestead House • Old Fashion Milk Paint Co.
The Bonding Agent I always use is: Miss Mustard Seed’s Bonding Agent
4. USE A BONDING PRIMER
Good quality bonding primers will often state ‘no sanding is necessary’ and will stick to glossy surfaces like glass, tile, metal etc. Primers like Kilz, Zinnser or B.I.N are known for their excellent binding power. Any of you who are regular readers of my blog already know I’m a huge fan of BIN Shellac Primer. It’s my go-to for adhesion, odour and stain blockage including bad bleed though… it does it all! The really good primers do cost a little more but are well worth it. If you use a good quality primer prior to painting with a reputable paint, sanding may not be necessary.
Primer brands I have used:
B.I.N (my personal fav) • Kilz • Zinnser Bull’s Eye 1-2-3
5. USE A LIQUID SANDER/DEGLOSSER
Liquid sand paper/deglosser is probably the least known method to avoid sanding furniture. The liquid is applied to the surface. Then a chemical reaction occurs and grips onto the new paint you apply. It does smell, so it’s best used in a well ventilated area. I really like using this product for scroll details on furniture like I did for this vintage piece here. It’s easy enough to apply by brushing or wiping it on and then painting within the allotted time indicated in the directions.
The brand of Liquid Sander I use is: Circa 1850
ADHESION TIPS
• Cleaning with TSP or a degreaser will help with the grip of your paint/primer. However, it’s wise to read the directions before using heavy cleaning products. Why? A good example is the BIN primer I use states on the label – DO NOT use TSP!
• TEST FIRST! I know you’re gung-ho to start, and testing sounds like a waste of time. But I can’t tell you how many comments and emails I’ve received saying “My paint is peeling or chipping”. It’s well worth taking an extra day to test. Much easier than putting in a few days of creative work only to have to strip it and start all over again. Apply your product of choice in a small inconspicuous area and let it dry. The following day, give it the scratch test with your fingernail or the top of a screw. If the paint sticks, you’re good to go.
If your scratch test fails, give your furniture a quick light sanding. It’s not a big deal. Take a 150-220 grit sand paper and wipe the surface down as you would your kitchen counter – just enough to scruff it up a little. Then take a tack cloth to remove all the dust. Now you’re off to the races knowing all your hard work will last for years to come.
• Really slick/glossy surfaces will benefit from a light sanding.
• Apply your product of choice in light even coats, NOT heavy thick coats. The result will look so much more professional and help with adhesion and dry time.
In my experience, the above methods are foolproof 9/10 times, but you still may end up with that one stubborn piece. Furniture kind of does it’s own thing. What works beautifully on one piece may not work on another. So when in doubt (or the scratch test fails) please, please, please, give your piece a light sanding! It breaks my heart when I get emails saying “I’ve put in all that hard work and my paint is peeling off!”
This restyled desk was in good shape so it was a great piece to use for this no-sand post. I chose to leave some of the beautiful wood showing while updating with color. However, in most cases, because my salvaged pieces are often scratched or gouged, the majority of my furniture does need sanding – and true funny fact – I always wear gloves because I still don’t like the feel of sandpaper!
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Hello,
Love what you did here, love it so much I ordered the Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint in “Trophy” so I can redo a wood side table, it has drawers and a cabinet. I also ordered her bonding agent. I didn’t see any reference to you having used an oil, wax or sealant after the painting. Did you? And you mention adding the Bonding Agent in equal amounts, but equal amounts to the dry paint, or the dry paint mixed with water. Add the Bonding Agent after it’s been mixed with water and sat for the 10 min she recommends? I just don’t want to screw it up, this is my first attempt at refurbishing a piece of furniture!
Thank you
Hi Sherry! Exciting you’re about to start your first piece. 🙂 yes, I always topcoat/seal my painted pieces to protect all the work and make them more durable and easy to clean. The bonding agent gets added to the mixed milk paint – not the powder. Hope this helps and have fun. 🙂
I have a pine wardrobe and set of drawers and I want to paint it with chalk paint. The pine wardrobe is varnished. Do you think I could do this without sanding? Or using that chemical? Or would the wood just crack? Could I use chalk paint and that bonding material you mentioned?
Julia
Hi! I have some very old furniture I’m getting ready to chalk paint. It’s so old I know I’ll get bleed through if I don’t Prime it first. I was going to use the Zinsser. It needs to be cleaned really well also. Lots of dust and grime on it. You stated not to clean with tsp if using Zinsser so what else can I clean with to really get all the grime of? I read a post lately that sad Mr. Clean sponges are great to clean dirty furniture with? Any thoughts on that?
Hi Elaine! Yup, Mr. Clean sponges work or a homemade diy solution of vinegar and water cuts through grease really well also.
Mr Clean it will be!! Thank you!
I also use mr clean sponges WITH the mix of vinegar and water… The mr clean sponges are really like sand paper… ish… They work perfectly together! Be prepared to go through a lot of the sponges because they fall apart quite easily, even the extra strength ones.
It has been my experience primer is the only way to stop bleed through,”especially with old wood when you are painting. If it’s been sitting out in the elements or in a house with a heavy smoker (I had a piece out of a house with heaving smoking going on), the primer is big time important to the integrity of the restoration!
Happy restoring, repurposing, whatever!
I bought several pieces of Thai Mahogany and have a problem due to low humidity. At each seam, the wood has “shrunk” and shows lighter wood underneath. Anything I can do about it? It has a black stain and I was thinking about repainting it to cover the recessed areas. Would chalk paint work on it and do I have to take the sheen off the furniture to paint it. I would like to just repaint it black. Don’t know if it is in fact a stain or a paint that it is covered with.
Hi there Denise! Love your revamped desk, stunning!! I am wanting to paint over the knotty pine in our 12 x12 Sunroom. It has a layer of polyurethane (I think), how would you tackle this project?
Hi Denise, I love reading your posts. I learn a lot. Thanks. Question about painting black furniture. The piece was laiminate, so I primed it with 2 coats of gripper primer in white (they did not have grey). I plan to paint it with rustoleum latex, no distressing. Will I have a problem white primer under black paint?
Hi Ellen! No, there should be no problem. To get a true ‘black’, an extra coat may (or may not!) be needed if the white is beating through. 🙂
Thanks so much for your quick reply I’ll get after it tomorrow!
Hi! Your site is amazing! What lucky customers you have ❤️❤️.
My vintage restoration project is an oak olhausen pool table, not ornate at all, just a very smooth, streamlined look. The rest of my home is shabby chic, real or faux… So Iexcited and terrified to take this on. I’d like to use Darrk blue grey primer, then, white, and last sea foam green…. in chippy layers. I was hoping to spray paint at least the primer after chemically removing the shellac..
Most chippy paint diy look just scraped, not the look of truly old chipping paint. Does layering oil based pain and acrylic the.n more oil paint along with the wax rubbing between layers help?
Thank you!
Liz
Denise,
I love this desk. I am trying to do one similar and would like to know how you did the stained part of the desk. Did you sand it and then stain it again or what did you do?
The stain is original to the piece Jen. It was in good condition so I didn’t need to sand or restain. Have fun with your project! 🙂
Hi Denise, I have a very dark wood dresser and chest of drawers that belonged to my father who has passed a year ago. I want to keep the furniture because its so sentimental. I really want to chalk paint it a dark navy blue color. Do you think that this would work alone or do I need some sort of top coat since it will be used by my grandsons? Thank you for your direction and fabulous tips! ~Stephanie
Hi Stephanie! Anytime I use a chalk type paint I always topcoat with wax or poly. Reason being, these types of paint are matte and porous and easily attract dirt, oils etc – so it’s best to have some protection after you’ve put in all that work. Sounds like a great project btw. 🙂
Hi! I have this vintage wood dresser that was painted a bubblegum pink with glossy paint. I want to paint it white but it’s too heavy to move to sand it. Do you think I could use a chalk or mineral paint over the glossy paint that’s on there? Or would you suggest maybe the liquid sander and then paint? Thanks so much!
Hi Tiffany! If it’s a glossy paint I would test the chalk/mineral paint you would like to use in an inconspicuous area before tackling the entire piece. If the paint doesn’t scratch off after 24-48 hours – you’re good to go. If it does scratch off, I would recommend the liquid sander. Just be sure to open all windows and follow instructions though – it’s pretty stinky stuff.
Hi there. We are building a new house and a month from moving in. Our prefinished hardwood stairs got very damaged and need to be redone. I played around with a trim piece that hadn’t been installed yet…I used Fusion little lamb with a dry brush technique. I like the look but will it stick on the poly’ed stairs? I plan to use Zar polyurethane on the finished product.
Unfortunately, time is paramount at this point and I’ve gotta do it right the first time. I’d love your opinion.
Hi Robyn! Fusion doesn’t claim to be a ‘no-sand’ paint but I love it and it’s super durable! If there is a shiny or slick poly finish, I would suggest giving it a light sanding before you use your dry brush technique.
Hello! I am doing my wooden kitchen table. I am going to use a chalk paint mineral paint. Will I need a top coat for either?
From what I gathered, I should:
1. First use the stain blocking product or shellac primer first,
2. followed by mineral or chalk paint,
3. then a top coat?
Since it is an everyday kitchen table, do you recommend anything extra to help with wear and tear? Thanks 🙂
All sounds perfect Alanna! You might even be able to skip the first stain blocking/primer step if you’re using a dark paint where bleed though won’t show through. For a kitchen table, I would recommend a few coats of poly.
My question exactly.. Thanks!! 🙂
Quick question!
I have a medium brown real wood bedroom set that I am desperately wanting to be a bright white. I have a baby due in 5 weeks and a 1 year old, so your opinion on the quickest/easiest solution to transforming this dingey old bedroom set into a nice bright white beauty would be amazing and greatly appreciated! Thank you!!!
Hi Angela, and congratulations! The quickest way would be to buy a chalk or mineral paint in a nice bright white and put a few coats on it. The only concern I have is if your brown wood is going to bleed through because some woods are very prone to this. If that’s the case, a shellac, shellac primer or stain blocking product can be applied also. Having said this, the fumes can be smelly and harsh even in a ventilated area. Probably not the best thing to be doing when you’re due in 5 weeks, so maybe recruit someone else if needed. 😉
What a lovely post!!! Great tips.
I have never painted futniture before and want to change my bedroom furniture. They are pine wood with a light varnish type finish that my husband did. What would be the best paint to use on them without having to sand and undercoat. I just want the paint I dont want to wax it afterwards…..if that is possible of course.
Denise,
The desk is amazing! Can you please share the colors and brand of paint you used for this project? Thanks so much!
Hi Sondra… thank you. I used Miss Mustard Seeds “Trophy” for the painted areas. The stained areas were untouched. And the desk was clear waxed for protection. 🙂
I want to refinish the top of my dining room table. I’m thinking about re-staining the top a darker stain, then using chalk paint on the pedestal legs to give it a shabby chic look. Do I need to sand the top down to bare wood to give it a darker stain, or will roughing it up with sandpaper be sufficient? I’m indecisive about leaving the top stained, or painting the entire table with chalk paint before sanding some edges, etc to give it a distressed look. If I paint, would I need to paint it a darker color first, so that when I distress the off white color of the table, the dark will show through. Or should I just paint it the light color, then let the stained wood show through when I distress it?
With this project I would definitely sand Prime with a primer that seals so no bleed through could take two to three coats and it does come in spray cans plus you can buy them in bulk. I’m not sure about the restaining part cuz I’ve never done that but this table sounds like it would be perfect project to paint the whole thing even do a test spot see how many coats you think you’ll need of the primer for bleed through definitely seal the top with polyacrylic but to make this even easier you can look into the Wagner home decor sprayer it comes with the compressor and all it was made with chalk paint in mind and regular paints stains and so forth you’ll save a lot of time you’ll be able to get into the deep little areas once you’re done painting it then do a little distress seal it and that’s it you can even experiment with just doing a polycrylic on the top and some clear and dark wax to add the distressed look you’re going for. Type up the style you like on this site and you’ll see so many and there’s one person on here that tells you how to paint furniture the right way and her Pieces come out beautiful but she does do the sanding priming and a special conditioner to the paint uses a good brush and roller but it’s amazing
Min wax Poly Shades can go over an existing stain to chane the colt with no sanding. It also goes over a prestained polyurethane finish but will not go over a lacquer finish without sanding. Also Retique It It is a fiber wood that you paint on and then restrain with your choice of any stain products
Thank you for the great post!
That is for all the tips. That desk is beautiful!!!
Question: I bought a Target brand (Threshold) bar cart. It looks like it’s a teakwood stain on it. I don’t really care for the color (but “cheap me” couldn’t resist the clearance price) and would like to paint it a charcoal gray color. Would you use the ZISSNER BIN primer first or another product mentioned and…
Do you think spray painting would be best or brushing it. And if spray to you have a favorite brand?
Thank you so much!!!!!
Hi I was given a white dining table with birch top on chairs and table, it’s peeling a bit and I would love to repaint it in white, do you recommend sanding or would the white chalk paint work fine?
Hi Denise,
I have a real wood bed frame that i want to paint from a black stain to a light gray. What do you recommend i do without having to sand it down? I just want to paint over the dark wood because I am moving and want it to be lighter.
Hi MIchael! Depending on the look you’re after, using a Chalk or Mineral Paint may be a quick and easy way to transform the black stained bed frame.
I am painting a flat color black dresser as well. I have fusion mineral paint in light gray and I do not want to sand it because I cannot carry this heavy dresser out of the bedroom. It says on the bottle to degloss or remove wax before painting. I don’t want to ruin the dresser by just painting it without attempting to remove the gloss or wax (probably wax because it is not shiny). In your opinion, would you use a primer or a smelly chemical sander or just go ahead a paint it? I have never used this type of paint before.
HELP! I just primed a super cool wood (had been stained and varnished back in the day) with Zinnser BONDZ primer. (I had it left from another recent project, so it’s not old product.) As the primer is drying, it is looking all crackly and checked … what is going on? Do I just paint over it? It seems to be adhering, but I won’t know for sure until I look at it in the morning. Do I need to start over?
Hi Christine! It’s challenging to say without seeing it, but it sounds like the finish on your super cool wood may have been a shellac type seal and caused a similar crackle effect as on this dresser I recently finished. If you are liking the looks of a crackle finish, you may decide to continue painting over it. If however, that’s not the look you’re trying to achieve, a sanding to remove the original finish would be helpful.
Hi there! Well, I didn’t know what I was doing, and I used a lovely grey color of a semi-gloss over already varnished wood to update the front faces of 2 bureaus and 2 end tables. My hubby later told me that was probably not the best idea. QUESTION: Is there anything I can use to go over my new paint that will help it bond? I hate to start all over, sand down all the work I’ve done, and repaint all over again. Suggestions????
Hi Kate! Proper bonding/adhesion takes place with the first coat of paint and the surface it’s applied to. You could try applying a topcoat, but unfortunately this is a short term solution if the paint did not adhered properly.
Hey Denise,
When using BIN shellac or one of the other binding primers, what type of paint do you paint over the primer? is oil based the way to go?
Hi Adam! I always use water based paints over BIN and the other primers I’ve listed.
What brush do you recommend? I’m painting a second hand changing table. Thank you!!
Hi Bailey! I’ve used inexpensive dollar store brushes to more costly Wooster and Purdy brands and everything in between. A good quality brush is nice, but it’s not what makes or breaks a painted piece. I suggest finding a brush (and size) that feels comfortable in your hand.
Hey Denise,
I just discovered your blog. I really love all your work. You have really inspired me to want to try refurbishing my mother’s old dresser. I am really scared that I may mess it up. The furniture has a veneer finishing. I am going to use a chalk paint to paint it. I am up in the air if i need to sand/prime it or not, due to many blogs saying that chalk paint needs no prep. I am going to use the brand of Americana Chalk paint. I was unable to locate Annie Sloan in Michigan. Do you know if this brand is a good quality. What would be your recommendations on how to tackle this project.
Welcome Melanie! 🙂 It IS scary and intimidating painting your first piece, especially if the piece that has sentimental value. A few tips that may help you out. 1) Keep in mind, it’s only paint. If you muck-up – it can always be fixed! 2) Chalk Paint is a great choice – I’ve never tried Americana Brand but I’ve heard it’s good. 3) Take the extra day and do a ‘test’ area in an inconspicuous area. After 24hrs, try scratching the paint with your finger nail or the top of a screw. If it’s coming off, a light sanding may be helpful. 4) If you’re still unsure whether to give it a go or not, find a cheap thrift store piece or castaway and practice on that first… this really helped build up my confidence when I first started painting projects. Good luck Melanie… I’m sure it will turn out beautiful! 🙂
Hi Denise,
I have oak chairs painted black at the factory against their advice! They said something about oil in the wood making it not a good idea. At any rate, the finish hasn’t peeled but it’s not beautiful. I would like to do something to change and lighten the color without the expense of dipping them to strip off the paint. There are bent wood braces on the legs under the seat that have tight angles and flat spindles on the backs with a horizontal brace in back. So not very easy to get all the surfaces covered. A nice medium grey would work with my kitchen. Is this an impossible job for someone who doesn’t know much about refinishing?
Hi Susan! No, not impossible for a beginner and they can definitely be switched to a nice medium grey. Having said that, spindly chairs are often the least favorite thing us furniture painters like to work on because it can be tedious – unless you’re working with a paint sprayer. If I was starting out and wanted to restyle my chairs, I would use a chalky paint and brush (being mindful of drips and/or runs) and then sand between coats… or go buy a few cans of a good quality spray paint and spray them. Here’s a great post from Diane at In My Own Style that may be helpful. 🙂
Hello Denise when I found your site and started reading some of the comments. I found what I was looking for. I have stained wood before but never tried to refinish anything with out sanding. Now that I have taken the step into this I am in a little trouble with my wife. LOL,
We found a broken table with wicker drawer. We got it for like 95% discount,,. It was a very dark brown with light brown wicker drawers. We wanted to make it between cream and white color and leaving the drawers alone. The type of Chalky Finish I used is from Valspar, the color is KID Gloves. Well once I got the table painted,, my wife want’s it a little darker, maybe with some sage color popping here and there. Any ideas on how to do this? If not with sage maybe a light tan color. I know I can sand a little to bring the drak brown out on the edges, but I need the flat top and sides to have like a washed finish to it. Sorry for the long question.
Hi Chuck! Happy wife happy life, so maybe I would try a dry brushing technique. If you take a small amount of sage (or tan) on a brush, and then wipe the excess off, lightly brush the wicker. Then immediately wipe the wicker so the sage is left in the crevices. You can test this technique on the inside of the piece to see if you and your wife like the look. Hope this helps. 🙂
Thanks I have been reviewing the dry brush technique and will let you know how it turns out. It sound almost like doing a wet wash to cause the milky look, And yes you are very correct happy wife happy live. LOL. We are going to try the tan look, safer thanks again
Hi Denise,
Congratulations for your blog and your many professional advice!
I have inherited a very large dark mahogany table with carved legs. I love it and I have been using it a lot through the years. But I can’t stand the dark colour any longer, and I would like to paint it white/cream.
I have no experience in painting furniture, so I am looking for an easy approach with an acceptable result.
Can I paint over the veneer without sanding?
Many thanks, Isabella
Hi Isabella! Veneer is a thin sheet of wood so yes, it can be painted over. And, a no-sand method on mahogany is great because once mahogany is sanded or altered, bleed through occurs. Then a primer (like B-I-N Shellac) will be needed to stop the bleed through before you paint it white! Any of the above no-sand methods will work. As it’s a large dark mahogany table, and it’s your first time painting furniture, I would recommend using Chalk Paint. Test first to make sure it’s adhering nicely – and then paint away.
Many thanks, Denise, for your prompt and kind reply.
I will keep you posted!
Isabella
Thanks so much for all the great info! The desk is beautiful! I LOVE That look! I did a similar desk in Annie Sloan graphite with dark wax . I do have a question , you would recommend BIN shellac under dark cabinets for the bleed through and not BIN primer with shellac correct? I’m using ASCP in Pure White. Also, Have you ever used Floetrol or do you know if you can use it in Chalk Paint?
Hi Karil! I hope I’m understanding your B-I-N question and if Im not – feel free to comment/ask again. 🙂 BIN Shellac Primer is a product made by Zinsser but Zinsser also make Bulls Eye Shellac – which is straight shellac with no primer. BIN Shellac based primer is (in my opinion) the best sure fire way to stop bleed through when painting with light colors or white – perfect for your ASCP Pure white! I’ve gone the Bulls eye Shellac route and have had mixed results. However, if you wanted to use straight/pure shellac to seal before using darker colors, it would probably work just fine and it is more cost effective. Having said that, when painting with dark colors like dark blues blacks etc, often bleed through isn’t visible anyway. Wheeew..long winded answer 🙂 Yes, I do and have used Floetrol – it works nicely. Yes, you can use it with Chalk Paint but save your money. When using Chalk Paints, it’s preferable to switch up to a softer brush and/or add a little water to thin so it lays nicely.
Hi Denise, I have a serious question. I just ordered some Annie Sloan Clear Wax. I was wondering if I added some white chalk paint to the clear wax would I get “white wax”
Please help!
Yes, I’ve tinted my own wax many times! The trick is to add it sparingly. Once the paint saturates too much of the wax, it doesn’t work.
Question: I got a beautiful cherry desk. It looks however, like someone stored it in a musty bsmt? Has mildew all over it. Would like to see if can clean finish, restore, rather than paint. Anyone have any ideas?
Hi Carol! If wood is painted or stained, the mildew most likely is sitting on top of the finish. I would suggest (wearing gloves, mask and protective wear) vacuuming the loose spores and then cleaning with warm water and dish detergent. If that doesn’t work and you require a little more heavy duty, a 50/50 solution of warm water and vinegar should do the trick. If the aftermath of the mildew smell still remains, here are a few tips to get rid of the bad smell. Hope this helps and good luck. 🙂
What a gorgeous desk!!! I can imagine this piece in my own home. I love the distressed gray against the dark wood. Beautiful work, as always. Thanks for all the tips to avoid sanding. It’s also one of my least favorite things to do. I’m thinking of re-painting my wooden kitchen table & chair set and am going to try using the liquid sandpaper thanks to your post. I have always wanted to paint it but was unsure of how I would sand all the spindles. Thanks again for sharing all your knowledge with us. And again…a gorgeous desk:)
Thanks Monique! 🙂 And yes, the Liquid Sander works great for chair spindles and detailed pieces!
Useful post! Thanks for the info, Denise. =D Strangely, sanding is the ONLY part of painting furniture I like… I love the finished piece, by the way! It would go great in a mancave. Are you selling it, or is it for the home? =)
Really?!? Lucky you! I can count on one hand how many people have told me they actually LIKE sanding. It’s kind of grown on me but I can’t say I actually LIKE it. I’ve come to think ‘it’s-not-that-bad’…lol. But give me a paint brush over sanding paper ANY DAY!!! … oh, and I’ll be posting this piece for sale. Have a good one Zovesta. 🙂
Haha, I know, I’m weird!! I like messing around with joint compound and insulation but paint… I can just never seem to get it right! Too many hours have been spent scouring your site and others for inspiration and help only to wind up with a sub par piece. 😡 I think I’m going to start having nightmares about paint brushes.
Of course, given how good you are at painting furniture, it just makes sense that you love doing it, lol. 😉
You sound exactly like MMM… he hates picking up a paint brush..lol
Denise,
One of my biggest problems with painting furniture is the paint brush itself, what do you recommend??? I dislike the paintbrush lines, help please!
Thank You,
Brandy
There are a few ways to avoid brush marks. 1) Lightly Sand between coats. But this is a NON sanding post so lets see what else we can do. 😉 2) Good quality brush. I’ve used stiff dollar store brushes and soft Purdy brushes. Higher quality brushes give softer/better results. 3) Avoid using a brush. Using a roller or spray-gun will eliminate brush marks. 4) Thin the paint with water. Adding a little water to prolong dry time and allow the paint to lay nicely is very helpful in reducing brush marks. 4) Floetrol Paint Conditioner or similar product. Again, this is used to prolong dry time and allows the paint time to settle and dry super smooth with no brush marks. Hope this helps Brandy!
Did you hand sand or use an electric sander? It looks so perfectly even. What grit of sandpaper do you use? Also did you use one coat of paint or two?
Hi Louann! 🙂 There was no prep-sanding for this desk and no electric sander was used. I did give it a light sanding (with a fine 320grit) inbetween the two coats of milk paint. I also gave it a quick overall final sand (to distress) on the last coat before I waxed it.
Did you paint just the drawers? The rest of it looks like the dark wood from the piece in it’s original state.
Yes, the drawers, top and sides were painted. 🙂
Awesome tips Denise 🙂 Do you only use primer when painting with whites? I painted a dresser some time ago and primed it first as I was concerned about bleeding, then I painted in ASCP Olive. When I distressed it I got a halo effect from the primer showing so I stopped and left it solid. What would you have done in this case?
Great question Annie! When I paint with lighter colors (especially whites!), I prime with BIN Shellac. In the years I’ve been doing this, there are more times than I care to admit when I didn’t prime – I regretted it! For darker paints I use my discretion. It really depends on the piece. What type of wood, the finish, and what dark color I’m using. Just as you mentioned, I hate using a white primer under a dark paint and then if distressed, you see the white come through…grrrr. Solution is to tint the primer dark or to forgo it all together like I did here.
Thanks for the tip Denise!
Really informative post!! And I double swooned when I saw the desk, as I have a similar piece I’ve been holding on to — just waiting for the right inspiration! I can’t wait to copy your piece, I just adore it! I also want to use the same hardware you chose, where might I find it? Thanks again!!
Thanks Kristi, so glad you like the desk! The cup handles are from Hobby Lobby. If you check their flyer, I believe it’s every second week, you can buy hardware for 50% off! 🙂
What a lovely piece. I have learned so much by reading your posts. Thank you.
Thanks Denise, I have learned so much from your posts. I will keep this one as a bookmark so I can refer back to it again. I haven’t tried most of these paints and look forward to finding pieces to use them on. I am retired now and repair and refinish furniture for fun. I too sell all my completed projects. You truly are an inspiration to me. Keep up the great posts!!!
Beautiful + some ! So Satiny ! Thank you for all you share Denise .
Fantastic post. Thank you so much for sharing such valuable info. Keeping this close by for reference!
Awesome post. Very informative. I still cannot paint like you!!!
Do you have a post that explains how you line your drawers? It’s such a fun detail! Do you use fabric or paper? Mod-podge, or just cut to fit and lay it in?
You really are an inspiration – thanks for all the wonderful tips and access to your beautiful work!
Thanks Laurie! x Here is an easy way to line drawers and NO measuring is required. The drawers on this desk are lined with a gorgeous heavy upholstery fabric (which does require measuring). I lucked out and found various patterns and designs at a ReStore for $5 a bolt! I also use heavy-duty paper and lighter paper as well. It just depends what I have on hand and what pattern or design I feel looks best with the piece. Because I sell all my furniture, I rarely adhere the liners unless the buyer requests it. They’re easily removable for cleaning or if the client/buyer wants to swap them out.
Your tips were great. I especially like Bullseye 123 primer and have had good results.. thank you for all your great tips and enjoy all your redos
Beautiful piece Denise.
I have just used Wise Owl Chalk Synthesis Paint and am totally in love. I am a Fusion girl too!
Julie
Thank you for this post. This is a gorgeous piece; what color and what paint did you use on it?
Thanks Debbie. 🙂 This desk is painted with Miss Mustard Seed’s ‘Trophy’.
Thanks as always for your info on how to make our pieces as professional as yours
You never fail my friend and yes I love love love the desk transformation
Janet
Thanks Janet! {big hug} I love that you always take the time to be encouraging and inspiring! <3
Great post, thanks for taking the time to share these tips. Denise, again, this piece is just fantastic! Just when I think you’ve created the best look yet, you create yet another one even more beautiful. Truly inspiring. Would love to see a post explaining the process, materials used for this one.
Thanks Tracy! And this piece was so easy-peasy-quick, it would be a pretty short post. Clean + mix milk paint with bonding agent + paint. Then I sanded to get the distressed look and waxed and buffed for a nice sheen. Wish all my pieces went this smoothly. 😉
Wow, that was easy! Guess the wood was in great condition, it looks like it got new stain. Just love it! Thank you.
The wood was in good condition… I just couldn’t bring myself to cover it all up. 🙂
What do you use to wax a painted pice?
This desk was waxed in Annie Sloan’s Clear Wax but I’ve used many brands of wax. TreWax, Minwax, CeCe Caldwell to name a few.
This is SO beautiful! Great post!
Thanks my friend! x
Another winner…. thanks for the great tips Denise!
…no sanding for those lazy days 😉