Ask any professional furniture painter what their least favorite part of restyling is, and they will most likely say SANDING. It’s messy. It’s time consuming. It’s mindless work. True fact – when I first started salvaging furniture, I cringed at the mere feel of sandpaper. So, it’s not surprising that one of the most FAQ’s I receive is: How can I paint furniture without sanding?
Before I share a few ways to avoid this messy task {I’ll be sharing some products I’ve tested over the years}, here’s a vintage desk I just restyled. This wood desk was NOT sanded prior to painting and it was NOT painted with Chalk Paint.
This post contains affiliate links for convenience. You can see my full disclosure here.
This post contains affiliate links for convenience. You can see my full disclosure Here are 5 Ways To Paint Furniture Without Sanding:
1. USE A CHALK PAINT
This is hands-down the most common and well known way to paint pretty much anything without sanding. The huge mass appeal of chalk paint is not only the gorgeous matte finish, but the no prep promise. I’d argue that chalk paints are the cornerstone of the painted furniture industry as we know it today. Since Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paints have become so popular, there have been numerous brands of chalky type paints to hit the market.
A few brands I’ve tried and tested {that have amazing adhering power} are:
Annie Sloan • CeCe Caldwell • Bluestone House • DIY Chalk Paint • General Finishes Chalk Style
2. USE A MINERAL PAINT
Mineral paint is very similar to chalk style paints in that no prep or prime is required. It sticks to pretty much anything. As an added bonus, brands like Fusion are so durable, it’s waterproof, stain proof and doesn’t even require a topcoat.
My go-to mineral paints are: • Fusion • Dixie Belle
3. USE MILK PAINT + BONDING AGENT
As I already mentioned, the antique desk in this post was not prep-sanded. I used Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint in ‘Trophy’ mixed with equal parts bonding agent. Bonding Agent is a milky substance that works like a primer to help adhere the milk paint to your project. It’s easy enough to use and the grip is amazing. Mix equal parts bonding agent into your already mixed milk paint. Including the Bonding Agent is only required on the first coat.
The brands of milk paint I regularly use are:
Miss Mustard Seed • Homestead House • Old Fashion Milk Paint Co.
The Bonding Agent I always use is: Miss Mustard Seed’s Bonding Agent
4. USE A BONDING PRIMER
Good quality bonding primers will often state ‘no sanding is necessary’ and will stick to glossy surfaces like glass, tile, metal etc. Primers like Kilz, Zinnser or B.I.N are known for their excellent binding power. Any of you who are regular readers of my blog already know I’m a huge fan of BIN Shellac Primer. It’s my go-to for adhesion, odour and stain blockage including bad bleed though… it does it all! The really good primers do cost a little more but are well worth it. If you use a good quality primer prior to painting with a reputable paint, sanding may not be necessary.
Primer brands I have used:
B.I.N (my personal fav) • Kilz • Zinnser Bull’s Eye 1-2-3
5. USE A LIQUID SANDER/DEGLOSSER
Liquid sand paper/deglosser is probably the least known method to avoid sanding furniture. The liquid is applied to the surface. Then a chemical reaction occurs and grips onto the new paint you apply. It does smell, so it’s best used in a well ventilated area. I really like using this product for scroll details on furniture like I did for this vintage piece here. It’s easy enough to apply by brushing or wiping it on and then painting within the allotted time indicated in the directions.
The brand of Liquid Sander I use is: Circa 1850
ADHESION TIPS
• Cleaning with TSP or a degreaser will help with the grip of your paint/primer. However, it’s wise to read the directions before using heavy cleaning products. Why? A good example is the BIN primer I use states on the label – DO NOT use TSP!
• TEST FIRST! I know you’re gung-ho to start, and testing sounds like a waste of time. But I can’t tell you how many comments and emails I’ve received saying “My paint is peeling or chipping”. It’s well worth taking an extra day to test. Much easier than putting in a few days of creative work only to have to strip it and start all over again. Apply your product of choice in a small inconspicuous area and let it dry. The following day, give it the scratch test with your fingernail or the top of a screw. If the paint sticks, you’re good to go.
If your scratch test fails, give your furniture a quick light sanding. It’s not a big deal. Take a 150-220 grit sand paper and wipe the surface down as you would your kitchen counter – just enough to scruff it up a little. Then take a tack cloth to remove all the dust. Now you’re off to the races knowing all your hard work will last for years to come.
• Really slick/glossy surfaces will benefit from a light sanding.
• Apply your product of choice in light even coats, NOT heavy thick coats. The result will look so much more professional and help with adhesion and dry time.
In my experience, the above methods are foolproof 9/10 times, but you still may end up with that one stubborn piece. Furniture kind of does it’s own thing. What works beautifully on one piece may not work on another. So when in doubt (or the scratch test fails) please, please, please, give your piece a light sanding! It breaks my heart when I get emails saying “I’ve put in all that hard work and my paint is peeling off!”
This restyled desk was in good shape so it was a great piece to use for this no-sand post. I chose to leave some of the beautiful wood showing while updating with color. However, in most cases, because my salvaged pieces are often scratched or gouged, the majority of my furniture does need sanding – and true funny fact – I always wear gloves because I still don’t like the feel of sandpaper!
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I have a curved wooden coffee table that has bad staining from hot plates, faded circles from hot drinks, water damage etc. I think it is wood veneer (not solid natural wood) as you can see the layers on the side. What would be the best and easiest way to restore it? It is a light mahogany high shine finish at present. I would really like it to still look like wood (more dark oak), rather than a painted colour if possible. Can you offer any (easy! )suggestions to restore it please? Thank you 🙂
I have oak kitchen cabinets from 1992, and want to paint them a nice gentle off white. What process and color would you suggest?
Hello, I’m looking to refinish a hutch, a dining room table, and set of chairs. I’d like to avoid sanding. All of the pieces I’ve found to purchase for this project are glossy dark wood pieces. I plan to NOT sand anything, and to use Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paint and was wondering, am I able to use something after the chalk paint to once again give it a glossy look?
Hi Jessica and for sure! I’ve used chalk paint and then top-coated with a gloss or semi-gloss poly. Works great. 🙂
So I’m Turning an old dresser into an entertainment center. I was able to sand the sides and the front; however, when I try to sand the top I found out that it was not real wood in that area. I am going to use unicorn spit as stain for the top, so what would my best bet would be for getting it ready for the application of the unicorn spit?
Hi Shannon! Although I’ve seen some impressive makeovers using Unicorn Spit, I’ve never tried it so I couldn’t say. Sorry.
Hi! I’m new to refurbishing things. And appreciate any help! I bought a dollhouse bunkbed for my girls because it was a great price. However, it’s too girly, and doesn’t fit our design inspiration. It does have a slick surface.. is there any way I can repaint or change the asthetic without sanding? It’s already in the house… Thanks!!
HI Denise,
I had the opportunity to get a queen size headboard and footboard for free. . It is a cherry but I want to make it lighter. It is an older sleigh bed design. I have not taken on such a project in the past. I am trying to determine if I need to sand it or if I can use one of the methods that you suggested. I would really like to make it white but not sure what that entails. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Lisa
Hi Lisa! If it has a slick topcoat (I think I know exactly what type of cherry sleigh headboard you’re talking about!) I would recommend giving it a light sanding by hand. Nothing crazy. Just take a 120 grit sandpaper and wipe it down like you would a kitchen counter. This will give it some ‘tooth’ to grip onto and then you can paint with a chalk/mineral paint which will adhere nicely.
Hi
What’s the best solution. For a pine wardrobe not wanting to sand nor smell in the bedroom
Hi there,
Awesome blog!
I am currently researching the best and most durable type of paint to use on my dining room table, and. Am reading so many conflicting suggestions…
I have 2 young boys and the table is about 10 years old, so it’s in pretty rough shape.
I have used Annie Sloan chalk paint and Fusion mineral paint in the past on other projects and loved the results. But wasn’t sure if those paints would be durable enough for this project?
I have read that non-toxic acrylic would be best, as well as oil based., and enamel.,.,
What would you recommend? I
f I do go with chalk or fusion, should I sand beforehand for more long lasting results?
Hi Kathy! Yes, AS and Fusion can be used (and a light sanding prior to applying is a great idea!) with durable results IF it is topcoated and sealed properly. I would use a really durable poly and use at least 3 coats. Minwax, Varathane or Gator Hide are all amazing. If you want to go the acrylic route, SW All Surface Enamel is amazing and super durable. 🙂
HI Denise, Enjoying reading your info to advise us about painting furniture. In response to Kathy’s question, am I right to understand you apply the AS or Fusion chalk paint but need to also put 3 coats of durable clear poly on top of it to ensure it would last. I’m doing end table tops, so they get lots of wear and tear. TY
Hi Mary! For high traffic items (like your end table tops) I always protect with a poly topcoat and yes, 3 coats is ideal. It will protect all your hard work. Make it last longer. Make it easier to clean. Scratch-resistant etc. 🙂
I have a cedar chest that is 41 years old. The finish on the top looks like it was a really heavy clear lacquer. There are some scratches in the clear (from a cat skidding across it) but I don’t think they go very far into the wood. I want to use General finishes Java stain on the top, and chalk paint on the body of this chest. I have rheumatoid in my hands, so I need to be as energy efficient in my choices as I can!
2 questions:
!. Do I need to use a stripper to get the lacquer off, or should i just use a sander, or a combination of both?
2. I’m concerned about bleed through on the top of the chest. (it is the orangey tiger stripey type of cedar chest, lol) Is there a product i can use prior to staining to prevent bleed through? I know to use a prier if painting, but what about before stain?
Thanks for your help, love your blog!
Hi there. Love all of your information, so first, thank you!. I’m tackling something I don’t see any reference to yet – an antique baroque piece with heavy detailing, and lots of intricate scrolling. It’s varnished and I’m thinking your recommendation for a deglosser is the best way to go. I’m painting black over brown, and don’t want to use chalk paint, because for this, I’d like gloss or semi gloss. Is there a paint you would recommend? Should I spray it because if all the detail? Thank you in advance. Your site has been the most helpful!
Hi Laura! I’m so happy you’re finding the #siblog helpful. okay. Here’s what I would do if it were mine… and your piece sounds extraordinary btw. You don’t want to sand all that detail and get all the bleedthrough so I would use an adhesion primer like Slick Stick. A primer that bonds to shiny surfaces (like glass, metal, plastic etc) will work well on a varnished detailed piece. Then I would use a chalk or mineral paint either sprayed on or brushed because they both have great adhesion properties too and are tailored for furniture painting. To get the gloss or semi-gloss finish, spray on a few coats of poly in whatever sheen you like. I paint all my furniture in chalk mineral paints whether I want a shiny finish or not. Then I pick the appropriate topcoat. Hope this helps and have fun!
Just found your sight and appreciate all this Q &A…….. so in regard to the Slick Stick, will it prevent bleed through and do you prefer it more to the Bin Shellac? Also, what top coat do you use that will not “yellow:” or change the color of the final chalk painted piece?
Hi Anne! No, Slick Stick does NOT prevent bleedthrough. It’s to be used on a slick or shiny surface that has NOT been sanded. So when I have a piece that will bleedthrough or that I’ve sanded I used BIN Shellac Based Primer. DB BOSS will also prevent bleedthrough if you’re looking for a “non-smelly” primer. For topcoats, Varathane makes a non-yellowing if you’re looking for say Home Depot Brands. I’ve been using Dixie Belle’s Gator Hide and Waterbased Clearcoats as well and have had no issues. 🙂
Hi Denise! I just read this article and it’s awesome as I have just purchased a round pedestal table I’d like to re-purpose in the same fashion! My question is about the chairs that came with the table … I’m not looking forward to sanding all the nooks and crannies on the chairs and was wondering if I can get away with just sanding the more used areas like the arms and seat, and then just paint the back spindles etc.
Thank you so much for any input you might have!! 😊
Hi Heather! Because tables and chairs are high traffic, I wouldn’t recommend partial sanding and then painting. After all your hard work, you’re taking the risk of all the unsanded parts chipping or peeling off since they are used daily. If you’re not into sanding, this product can be ‘painted’ onto slick surfacesthis product can be ‘painted’ onto slick surfaces (like glass, glossy furniture, tiles etc) and it makes the paint adhere/stick 100%. This way you don’t have to sand any parts of the chair and you don’t have to worry. Hope this helps. 🙂
I’m considering painting my hardwood floors, and they are throughout the entire house except the kitchen and bathroom. They’re stained, but not too coated. I really, really, don’t want to send to bare wood. Will the above tips and tricks help with my project?
Hi, I just came across this while searchIng for info. Great article – thanks for sharing so much helpful info, including the names of those products! I will subscribe to this, as we’re doing a lot of projects to fix up our home right now. Also, I have a question – my teen daughter had already painted all her bedroom furniture, before I saw this article, and now the paint is peeling. Can we put that. bonding agent on TOP of the paint, to stop it from peeling off? Or is there any substance out there, that you can put on top of paint, to stop the peeling, so we don’t have to start all over?
Hi Martha! Kudos to your daughter for taking on such a wonderful project!! 🙂 As far as I’m aware, there’s no product out there that will stop peeling indefinitely. The good news is not ALL the paint has to be sanded off. Sand just enough to remove the peeling and smooth out the rest before repainting.
Thank you so much for all 9f this information! I have a desk that’s about 30 years old. My mom would put Pledge on it weekly when I was a kid. Me, umm…ok, I’m not that good at the “dusting”. The desk has really been used, I’m still using it. The finish has worn over the years and I am ready to give it a fresh look. With all the “dusting” that was done it does have a sheen to it. Can I still use one of the methods you shared or do I need to sand the finish off? Or additional prep? Thank you so much for your direction!
Hi Laura! I hear you. My Mum used Pledge to dust ALL the time too! Yes you can use any of the above methods. If it were my desk, as extra assurance, I would take a little square of 220 grit sandpaper and run it over the top to give it some ‘tooth’ for your paint to stick to. Seriously, this will take all of 30 seconds. You run it over the top as if you were wiping down your kitchen counter. Nothing intense. Nothing fancy. Then go ahead with the makeover. I hope this helps and great project btw. 🙂
Hmmm…just thought of something:
Odor is a big factor here, not for me, doesn’t bother me at all, but it WILL bother the other folks who live in this complex. How do I get around that?
Hi Patty! I have the same problem when working with chemical-based products because my studio is aka my basement. I have a large fan that I place against my open studio window to help suck out the smell. It does help, but unfortunately not 100%.
Hi there! Love how informative this was! I’ve got dark wood builtins in our new house that I’m wanting to paint navy. I’d love to not sand the whole built in….so I was thinking of using liquid sandpaper, but then I got confused. Would you ever use liquid sandpaper and then put the BIN primer on top before you use the new paint? Or just use one or the other (liquid sandpaper vs. primer). Thanks so much!
Hi! Completely new to furniture painting know-how. I am an artist who wants to transform all her white furniture into picturesque works of art. I read up on the chalk paints and see that you also have to WAX after you apply the chalk paint and that you have to wait a few weeks for the wax to cure. Oh boy what a deal-breaker!! I have no patience with prior procedures that require this kind of time delay. I thought all I had to do was apply the chalk paint, wait a couple of hours and then start applying my artwork. What else can I do?
Pat
Hi Pat and WELCOME! 🙂 What type of art/medium are you wanting to apply over the chalk paint?
i USUALLY WORK IN ACRYLIC FIRST THEN OVERLAY IN oILS
Ooops, sorry, didn’t notice the caps lock was on…
…and forgot to answer your other question as to what I plan on painting. I am a portrait artist but want to do something whimsical on ALL my white furniture.
Hi Denise! Thank you for all of your inspirational posts!
I’m somewhat of a newbie – trying to refinish a headboard and footboard using Rust-Oleum Universal Spray Paint in Metallic Rubbed Bronze. Going for the uniform look that is popular in the farmhouse bedrooms right now. It has wooden posts, and metal scrolling. The metal is lightweight with a smooth, painted (?) finish. I’m concerned about sanding the metal, or even using the chemical “sander” as the proper masks are not available right now. Is there a primer that would work? What would you recommend?
I have pictures I can send – I don’t see a way to attach them here.
Thank you so much for your help!
Hi Kate! If you’re going to use Rust-Olem Universal Spray Paint – I would use their primer as well. Rust-Oleum also makes B-I-N Shellac Based PrimerB-I-N Shellac Based Primer which would also work well… and it also comes in a spray can.
Hi Denise, I have a white washed weathered oak kitchen table that I’d like to stain. Can I do that without sanding? Thank you for sharing your advice.
Hi Lisa! It may depend on the topcoat but gel stains are often a good fit for staining over the existing stain. I would recommend sanding with a 120 grit (just enough to scuff up the surface to accept the gel stain) and then a darker stain can be applied.
Thank you for all of your tips and advice!
I am on a mission to get rid of everything “brown” in my home , and just have burnt out on the sanding just after a few pieces! Ii have been so faithful keeping my grandmas and my moms pieces and some of my mother in laws also since inheriting them , but I lost my dear husband of 43 years recently and I want to change everything up, make it all new and bright and cheery! Don’t plan on remarrying , lol so why not!
So thank you so much! Now ai can really get this show on the road!
Have to say I feel,sorry for my kids when I’m gone to heaven, lol, between the walls and the furniture 😂😂😂
Hi Lora! So happy this has inspired you and I totally get it btw. When you lose a loved one, it can be cathartic to change things up.💜Sounds like you have some amazing pieces to work with.
I’ve used chalk paint successfully in multiple areas, even a microwave. As a result, I have the ingridients to make my own chalk paint. Can I use high gloss sealant after I’m done painting with chalk paint? Thanks in advance!
You sure can! 🙂
What is the paint and color of paint you used on this piece? I like that you left some of the original wood unpainted. I have a similar piece and this is exactly what I am looking to do.
Hi Leslie! I used Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint in ‘Trophy’ mixed with an equal part of MMS Bonding Agent.
Hi there,what a beautiful job on that dresser! Have you ever dealt with a black lacquer piano? I am downsizing to a one bedroom apt and want to paint it either a shiny light golden beige color so that it blend into the room and not sitick out like a sore thumb. I have not done any furniture refinishing. It is an old piano, not damaged but I’m not worried about resale value. Any suggestions you would have are appreciated! Thank you!
Hi Mary! I’ve never repainted a lacquer piece in lacquer but I’ve repainted with chalk mineral paints. I would suggest you sand off the shiny surface (until it looks dull and scuffed – it doesn’t have to be totally sanded off), then ask your local paint store (Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore for example) what primer and lacquer paint would be suitable to pair together. Also, I know most lacquer finishes are a spray finish but they could probably suggest a good roller/brush for lacquer to get the best results with the least brush marks. I wish I could be more specific but I don’t paint with lacquers.
I want to paint an oak curio cabinet. It’s a pretty large piece. Will it look good painted?
Just bought a new house, and don’t want to buy new furniture.
Thanks
I think everything can look good painted! 😉 Yes, large painted pieces can look stunning and save you a TON of money. 🙂 Congrats on your new home.
Hi Denise, just read your blog & saw the desk u redid-
Love the color on drawers, would u share thr brand & COLOR?
Getting ready to do a couple old pcs for our upstairs.
Thx, Patricia
Thank you!
Great advice! Priming is so important 😊
I refinish full time, cabinets and furniture. No judgement but I always lightly sand. No matter what. It doesn’t take long enough to make a huge difference in my opinion and overall it makes for a smoother looking result. I have used liquid sander for a few interior projects where the client specifically asked for me to not sand. It worked great but I used oil based paint on the projects so it probably would have stuck pretty easily either way😊 just my 2 cents. Happy painting!!
Hi Katie are you located in NC or VA?
I have a table that I want to remodel, but I’m worried about sanding due to the fact that it has a formaldehyde warning on it. I know formaldehyde is pretty commonly seen in paints, but I just worry about creating particles for a substance that may be carcinogenic. Any recommendations?
Wear a good respirator, gloves & protective clothing.
Hi! I am making a film and need to darken some light coloured, standard melamine/ laminated office furniture. This is my first time redecorating furniture and I’m stumped! I was wondering if you could tell me which of these products you would recommend for this?