Hi there… I hope you’re well and thanks for stopping by! {big smile}
A popular topic around here (and in blog land) has been painting laminate furniture. I thought I’d continue the conversation today because I found this shapely French Provincial Laminate Dresser at the Thrift Store… so pretty!
This is a perfect piece to show you The 2 Best Ways to Paint Laminate Furniture.
Let’s start with a non-techie description and say that laminate is very different than veneer!
Laminate is a man-made shiny, smooth, non-porous material that is like a ‘print’ or ‘photo’ of the wood grain. Manufacturers use this product to cover less expensive wood-composite furniture to give the appearance of higher quality wood.
Laminate CAN be painted but it can NOT be stained.
Common concerns when painting laminate furniture is:
1. Bubbling while the paint/primer is still wet.
2. Poor adhesion after the paint has dried/cured.
Both indicate that your paint did NOT properly stick or bond to the laminate. This will cause all your hard work/finish to scratch off easily long after your piece is complete. And we don’t want that!… so here we go….
The 2 Best Ways to Paint Laminate Furniture ~ Method #1
Step 1. Clean the Surface
This dresser was dusty so all that was needed to clean it was a soft cloth dampened with warm water. If it had had grease or staining, I would have used vinegar and water or a TSP solution.
If you use any sort of chemical cleaner, ensure that all the residue is thoroughly wiped off before Step 2.
Step 2. Lightly Sand the Entire Piece
Yes, SAND! Laminate is a slick and non-porous surface so it’s best to lightly scuff the surface. I use 150-220 grit sandpaper to sand the laminate because it’s the BEST way to get the primer and paint to adhere properly. Trust me…this step will ensure your paint job lasts!
Be careful not to over-sand though.
I once used my sander and tore the laminate right off. When I painted that piece, you could see the difference in “texture” (MDF vs Laminate) through my paint job.
So be easy with your sanding. Take the sandpaper in your hand and lightly go over the piece as if you’re wiping down your kitchen counter. No more is required!
Step 3. Prime
I used B.I.N shellac-based primer. I really like this primer because it has super adhesion for shiny surfaces including tiles. A few of my other favorite primers are KILZ and Zinsser.
When you choose a primer to paint laminate, just make sure it says for shiny surfaces. One coat is sufficient but you can do two coats if you prefer. If the primer is not adhering to the laminate properly, you’ll notice it looks uneven and bubbly.
Step 4. Paint
After 1 coat of primer, I applied 3 coats of Café au Lait paint.
For a professional finish, I like to lightly sand in-between each coat with fine grit sandpaper.
Step 5. Protect with a Sealer/Topcoat
Protect and seal your work with a topcoat. I used Minwax Wipe-On Poly in Satin for the handles and Annie Sloan Clear Wax for the entire dresser.
The 2 Best Ways to Paint Laminate Furniture ~ Method #2
I used 2 different paints on this dresser and of course one of them had to be Chalk/Mineral Paint!
The Café au Lait part was painted with a regular eggshell latex with all the steps described in Method #1.
The Dove White (front drawers and striped sides) was painted with a custom Chalk/Mineral Paint. When painting laminate with Chalk/Mineral Paint (brand name or HMCP), the steps are EXACTLY the same as Method #1 EXCEPT NO PRIMER is needed.
With Chalky Paints sanding is usually not required, but to get a long-lasting finish on the laminate, a light sanding is still a REALLY good idea!
You can get some really great deals on wood laminate furniture and they paint up gorgeous… so I hope you’re inspired to give it a try!
Update 06/19/2018 – Hi guys! I’ve painted plenty of laminate pieces since this post was originally published. I’m pretty picky (and loyal) with the primers I use but I recently found another amazing product that adheres paint to laminate. No sanding, water-based, easy to use and clean up… and it sticks like nobody’s business! You can see a laminate dresser I’ve used it on here. If you do decide to give it a try, I’d love to hear what you think and how you’re project turned out. 🙂
RELATED POSTS::
How To Paint Laminate Without Sanding – 90’s Makeover
Painting Over Laminate The EASY Way
The Difference Between Laminate and Veneer
Milk Paint Laminate Furniture
How To Make ANY Surface Paintable
I’D LOVE TO HEAR WHAT YOU THINK OF THIS FINISH. IF YOU HAVE ANY TIPS YOU’D LIKE SHARE OR HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, FEEL FREE TO CHIME IN… I ALWAYS LOVE HEARING FROM YOU.
Happy painting and have an inspiring day my friends,
Denise x
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Stuart Kirby says
Hi Denise,
Thanks for this excellent article. It has cleared up a lot of confusion I had. However, I am still not sure whether to go with an emulsion (latext) based paint or chalk paint for my project. I have 8 foot wide laminated wardrobe which is divided into 4 sections and its fixed to the wall. I was thinking of using chalk paint (as I believe it would be quickest) but was wondering if the finish would be smart enough? Or is chalk paint only really good for a distressed look?
Can you suggest any other tips to speed up the project?
Thanks for your help
Stuart
Denise says
Hi Stuart! For a high traffic laminated wardrobe, my preference would be sand, prime, paint using a good quality emulsion (latex – water based) paint. If you have acrylic enamel paints like Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel – even better and more durable. Easy to apply. Easy to clean. And super durable – won’t show scuff marks from hangers etc as chalk paints might do. Hope this helps and good luck with your project. 🙂
Stuart Kirby says
That’s great! Thanks Denise. How mang coats would you say its likely to need and how long in between?
Thanks again,
Stuart
Denise says
With a good coat of primer, usually 1 or 2 coats is sufficient with a good quality paint – but see what looks good to you. I always read the paint/and or primers manufacturers labels to see how much time between coats is needed because this will vary between brands. But keep in mind dry time is different than cure time. You can find more info on cure times here.
Caroline says
Hi there, thanks for a thoroughly detailed article, and helpful responses to readers’ questions. I have a laminate bedroom suite (two two-drawer side tables, a huge dressing table with separate wall-mounted mirror, and a chest of drawers), and a very limited time in which to paint it. My question is: what is the drying time between coats? If I get a team of friends together to help me paint, is it a project that can be done in a day, or do certain coats need to dry overnight, for instance?
Denise says
Hi Caroline! Yes, it’s possible to paint a laminate set in a day or two. Dry time depends on the product being used. Here’s some tips on paint and dry cure time(s).
Rocky says
Great post! Can you tell me what type of brush or roller you used?
Denise says
Hi Rocky! It was a while ago, but believe I used a Purdy paint brush. 🙂
°Kara says
I have laminate and melamine cabinets. The doors are melamine and the cabinets are laminate. I want to paint the a darker grey. I have the paint which is a latex but I need to find the right primer. Any thoughts. There are so may opinions and honestly I don’t want to screw this up but can’t stand looking at them any longer. I’m a single mom and money is and object. Help!!
LilyLouise says
Use chalk paint
No prepping required, including over laminate & / or melamine
J. Morley says
Hi there,
I am buying an old bungalow and the kitchen cupboard doors are in high gloss laminate or melamine in 70’s avocado green. Can you tell me if it is possible to paint over the doors as the colour makes the kitchen look dark and small. Thanks.
Denise says
You sure can! I would remove a door and bring it to your local paint shop. They can can advise you if it’s laminate or melamine (melamine is just a version of laminate but they are somehow manufactured differently) and provide a specific paint and primer for the material. Great project! 🙂
Katelyn says
Hey, great post!
I am redoing my daughters laminate furniture. My husband and I lightly sanded with 220 sand paper, put on our Zinsser bullseye 123 primer with a foam roller. As it was drying we noticed speckling like it wasn’t adhering to the laminate. Help! Did I ruin my daughters bedroom set?
Denise says
Hi Katelyn! No worries – it’s not ruined! Possibly the primer didn’t adhere 100% because it needed slightly more sanding. Or maybe it wasn’t cleaned 100% and there was oil/dirt that was repelling. Either way, I would lightly sand the entire piece again and re-prime.
Francesca says
Which kind of paint did you use in Method 1? The Cafe au Lait colour? I don’t necessarily mean brand. Is it emulsion? gloss? I don’t know!!! I don’t want to use chalk paint for particular project that I’m doing. Does it matter which kind of paint? I’m super confused 🙁 Fantastic step-by-step instructions though! Thanks!
Denise says
Hi Francesca! The Cafe au Lait was a regular eggshell latex paint. I believe our latex (water based) is the same as your emulsion in the UK. 🙂
Jennifer says
Ohh ok, so up to what point should I sand regular furniture (not laminate)?
Denise says
It all depends on the finish you would like to create on your piece. For a stained finish, you would sand down to the bare wood and then use high grit sand paper to make the raw wood perfectly smooth – then stain. For a painted finish, you can sand to smooth out existing product and just scuff up to create ‘tooth’ on an existing finish – then prime/paint over top.
Jennifer says
Good morning Denise 🙂 You mention that you like to lightly sand between coats. I notice that when I sand with 400 grit paper, it produces scratches. I did however do this over a piece that I had brushed polyurethane over a month ago…
Denise says
Hi Jennifer! Yes, poly can look slightly scratched if/when sanded. With my very LAST coat of poly, I do NOT sand. Some finishers will thin the last coat of polyurethane or polycrylic they apply to reduce bubbles or brush strokes… so no sanding is required on the last coat.
Jennifer says
Gotcha. Ok, now I’m finding difficulty sanding with my Corner Cat. Do you think the orbital sander is more powerful? I find the Corner Cat taking forever.
Denise says
An orbital sander is great for stripping finishes off – more power than a corner cat for sure. 🙂
Jennifer says
Hi Denise ^_^ I am *so* sorry to bother you with all my questions, but Miami is a tough place to sell in and I want to make sure I get my project right. So question is…how do you know how much you should sand? I read another blog weeks ago in which a lady described redoing her dining room table and how no matter how many times she had sanded or painted, the paint wouldn’t stick, until someone at a hardware store explained that the paint would only stick if she got to the BARE wood. So, I’ve been doing exactly that, and it’s been over two hours and I’m STILL not finished with a nightstand. So, is it necessary to sand to the bare wood? If it’s not is it necessary to use a primer? Thanks love!
Denise says
No, it’s NOT necessary to sand to the bare wood Jennifer. In fact, if you’re working with laminated furniture it’s a bad idea because laminate is made to cover sub-par particle board/chip board or cheap wood. Once you sand off the laminate and paint particle board, you will end up with an uneven looking surface.
Jennifer says
hi, I’m painting a toddler bed today. it also has a laminate finish. I’m going to lightly sand like you said. the paint is got is a spray paint with a built in primer. should this be ok without using a separate primer? Thanks!
Denise says
Great project Jennifer! If you’ve sanded to create some tooth for the paint to adhere to, it should be no problem but a lot depends on the quality of the paint. If you’re concerned, you could always try a test area in an inconspicuous area before taking on the entire project. 🙂
April says
Hi, I have glass doors on my laminate dresser, any suggestion to covering up the outdated glass doors? I was thinking of wall paper.
Denise says
Wall paper would look great April. Or you could remove them and insert wood. You can also add fabric… or maybe some fretwork in behind!
Amanda says
Love this post and so happy to have found it! I have a question about the sealant versus the wax… I love the look of a wax so I would really like to use it but when does that come the process? Do I seal and then wax or is it one or the other?
Denise says
Wax can be used all on it’s own as a sealant/topcoat Amanda.
Dawna says
Thank u!
Dawna says
Hi,
I just came across this feed. I painted a laminate peice with no primer or sanding (duh) and like you said the paint scratches right off. Should I remove the original paint,sand, prime, and repaint or do you think I can just sand over the botched paint job, sand, and repaint? Your input is appreciated. Your work is beautiful btw!
Denise says
Hi there Dawna! Ideally, remove all the original paint, a light sanding, and then prime and repaint. I know it’s a lot of work, however if the existing paint is easily scratching off and you paint over it, you will just have a peeling or scratched up paint job down the road. Good luck. 🙂
Norma says
Can you tell me if painting laminate would be the same when painting engineered wood?
Denise says
There is a slight difference in the prep Norma. Laminate is made up of a photographic image of wood. So if you’re sanding, you MUST be GENTLE. Then apply a primer that is specific to laminates or shiny surfaces. Engineered hardwood is made with layers of wood that have been bonded together and then has a top layer of actual hardwood. It can hold up to a little more sanding and regular primer works fine.
Kim says
Hello, I am painting my daughters dresser. They are a white laminate. After sanding would I still need a primer since I am going darker in color? Wonderful tutorial. Feeling very confident to handle this after reading it!
Denise says
Kim, if you decide to use a chalky paint on your daughters white laminate dresser, seeing as you gave it a light sanding, no primer required. If you use a ‘regular’ paint, then a coat of primer will be very beneficial. You can never go wrong using a primer (chalkpaint or not) because it promotes better adhesion and covers any stains/smells etc. 🙂
Lori S. says
I want to paint Ikea Svenbertil Chair which are veneers. Do you think your suggested method will be durable, especially on the seat. Your directions are so wonderful. Thank you for posting all this information.
Denise says
Yes, if proper prep/and or paints are used it should hold up just fine Lori. 🙂
Annie says
What a great post! Thank you. I was wondering how you got the hardware to match. It’s so beautiful. I’ve tried painting dresser hardware and it’s not easy. How did you do it? Thank you!!
Denise says
Thanks Annie! Here’s a quick tut on How To Paint Drawer Hardware.
Shailja says
I am so so glad that I stumbled across your blog and esp this article. I just bought a lowline entertainment unit from Vinnies that I wanted to try paint on. Thanks to you, I now understand wt I need to check out for .
Cheers !!
Amy says
Hi,
This is so helpful.
I have A dresser with veneer surface. I like the color and condition. But I just want to give it a distressed look. Can I omit first few steps. Just sand in a few areas, like edges and corners, to give it a distressed look and apply sealer to the whole piece?
Denise says
Amy, veneer is very thin so if sanding, make sure you don’t sand down to far like I did here. But yes, a wood veneer finish can be slightly distressed. 🙂
Amy says
So I don’t have to lightly sand the whole dresser?
1) If I just sand few areas to look distressed then they won’t be shiny like the rest of veneer. Is that ok?
2) Do I apply sealer to the sanded areas or the whole dresser? I wonder if it will adhere to the un sanded portion of the dresser.
Denise says
Amy, is this veneer or laminate? Feel free to email me with some pics because I’m not 100% certain we are talking about the same finish. I’d like to help if I can – however it’s a challenge when I can’t see the piece.
Tricia says
You can make a distressed look in veneer with chalk paint. It is very easy to do and yields beautiful results. There are two ways to to do it.
If you like the look underneath the veneer and want it to show through, using chalk paint in your chosen color, paint the entire piece one section at a time. Allow to dry until “almost” completely dry, which doesn’t take long with chalk paint. Take a damp rag, slightly damp, and wipe the areas you want to show through, ultimately achieving a not-so-perfectly painted surface. Seal with a wax that is matte.
The second method is my favorite.
Paint the entire piece (after lightly sanding and priming) in a darker chalk paint. On a piece I did, I used a deep chocolate brown chalk paint. Allow it to completely cure. I only needed one coat to completely cover.
In a lighter color, paint over the first coat. I used an antique white. One coat was sufficient. When. It was almost dry, I did the rag technique, brushing very lightly over the piece in the areas I wanted to highlight. Remember not to wipe too hard, or you will soften the first coat and end up with a muddy mess. Sealed it with a semi gloss wax.
I hope this helps!
novale jones says
hi..i am to new to doing anything with furniture..I found acute white piece for daughters room and it is laminate..it has couple stains on top and some scrapes,so it doesn’t need full paint job just touching up…so do I do same steps for just touching up and I am worried about matching the shiny white..please advise..thank you ahead of time.
Denise says
Novale, depending on the size of the touch-up(s) will depend on whether or not sanding or priming would be beneficial. I find touching up laminate furniture tricky as it’s hard to get a perfect match. However, you can try color matching and just doing the areas that require a touch up. If by chance it’s not matching as nicely as you’d like, then give the entire top a light sanding and paint.
Diane says
The previous owner’s dog scratched a portion of the door when it was locked up in a bedroom. The dog scratched down to the particle board over a 2-3 foot area. Should I sand and paint or used a solid stain or what do you suggest? Thank you.
Denise says
If you stain the grain may not match or the color may take differently in the area that was scratched down to the particle board Diane. If it were my door, I would opt to sand and paint.
Dana says
Hello,
I’m about to paint a set of mcm end-tables. The top and sides are laminated. A light sand will not conceal the minor chip in the shiny laminate. What to do? Thanks for your tips.
Dana
Denise says
Dana, you could fill with Bondo or Wood Fill and then paint. 🙂
Amy says
Hi, I love your blog! So much info! I have a table I bought from rooms to go years ago. Claims to be wood but when you look under it , it looks more like a pressed wood? Can something like this be chalk painted?
Denise says
For sure Amy. Just keep in mind if it has a glossy/shiny topcoat, a light sanding would be beneficial whether you use DIY or brandname chalk paint. Enjoy your project.
Jackie says
Hi!
I have a question. I have a side table I’d like to paint, but on one of the edges the laminate has chipped off. What should I do? Remove the whole edge? Try to sand in?
Jackie says
Never mind, I found a earlier comment about the chipping laminate. Thank you so much for your article and answering so many questions!
Kim says
Hey Denise!
2 words. THANK YOU!
What an amazing post with fabulous tips! 100% what I needed to see for up cycling some amazing old pieces!
I am attempting my first piece this week of old Ikea cubes from the dark to a white finish! I purchased the Zinniser 1-2-3 primer that says coats anything and everything with strong adhesion! I was unsure of melamine paint (which I purchased in a white) vs the use of regular paint with a polycrylic top coat x2…
I was told a Melamine would do the trick with a couple coats without having to seal as most use this on laminate cupboards! I am curious if you know the difference, and what your thoughts are!
Also if I were to chalk paint an item because it has a thicker finish, would you just use the polycrylic to seal it for a nice finish?
SO EXCITED TO DIY!
AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR THOUGHTS!
xx
Denise says
I’m excited for you Kim! Unfortunately I can’t give any thoughts on melamine paint because I’ve never used it. I’ve heard it levels beautifully and is often referred to as a liquid plastic that adheres to glossy surfaces, but other than that it’s a product I haven’t experienced/used yet. And yes to a poly seal for chalky paints. 🙂 Good luck!
Sarah says
Will the wax hold up as a sealant? I was thinking of doing this to a dining room table and want something that will hold up over time.
Denise says
Sara, for a table that will be wiped down, endure hot and cold plates, spills etc. I would suggest a water based poly. Wax will hold up nicely for a time but then reapplication is needed. Poly will only need to be applied once, and is tough and durable and super easy to clean.
I says
I spray painted a laminate consolectable with black primer then a black glossy coat. Today, i can easily scratch piaint off. Can I just paint a chalk paint on top of it or do i need to try and sand the black spray paint off?
Denise says
I would suggest sanding. If you apply ANY type of paint (including chalk/mineral paint) on top of a non-adhered glossy surface, it will eventually chip and scratch off.
Hannah says
Hi there!
Wonderful information. Thank you for the step by step.
I do have a question…the laminate piece I am wanting to paint is a kitchen table. Will this still work with hot dishes, cold beverages, etc?
Thanks!
Denise says
Yes Hannah. Just seal with a good few coats of poly or a durable topcoat!
Devon says
I recently bought a dresser at a thrift shop to paint for my daughters room. I lightly sanded the entire piece and with a brand name chalk paint which i have used before painted the entire dresser with one coat. The following day I went to sand down the piece and it came right off the top. The rest of the piece is fine but the very top just came right off with a rag and water. Any suggestions?
Denise says
Devon, it’s possible the previous owner had waxed or used a ton of furniture polish on the top so the chalk paint resisted. I would suggest a thorough sanding to the top and then paint again.
ngoc says
Thanks for the great tutorial. I tried repainting a bedside table and it worked out pretty well! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ6CvSc242Q
Kristelle says
Hi Denise, thanks for this great blog post!
I’m currently painting 2 brand new Ikea drawer units, since they were only available in white and wanted them in black-brown, I had to paint them. I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper and applied a coat of Zinsser B.I.N Shellac Based Primer. 3 days later, I applied a coat of Sico Furniture and cabinets interior alkyd emulsion paint (melamine finish) with a foam roller. I just applied the second coat today (3 days after the first coat), but right before that I noticed that I could easily scratch off the first coat with my fingernails. Is it normal for the first coat to do that? I noticed lots of tiny bubbles as well, while applying the paint, but they disappear after a 10-15 minutes. Now I’m worried that the paint might not be compatible with the primer?
Denise says
Hmmm, sounds like you did everything perfectly Kristelle! Even so, paint should not scratch off… this is an indication that it has not adhered to your piece properly. I use Zinsser B.I.N Shellac Primer all the time (LOVE the stuff!) so I wouldn’t think that’s the problem unless there is high humidity where you primed. If the primer is scratching off too, it may mean more sanding was required. If it’s just the paint scratching off, you may be right about compatibility. Unfortunately, I’ve never used a melamine finish paint so I’m unsure if there would be a compatibility issue with the primer???
Kristelle says
Hi Denise,
Thanks for your prompt reply! I think the first coat was too thin, I was so afraid it would be too thick. I did the third coat a week ago and it seems to be much better, but I will see in a few weeks if everything is fine. I don’t like the color though, I want a black-brown and this is taupe-brown.. in some lighting it looks a bit purple. It’s not ugly but it doesn’t look that great with the vanity. I bought the darkest brown they had at the store, the only other option I have is to paint it black but if I change the color, do I need to do another 2-3 coats? I’m afraid that it will take forever to dry with 6 coats.
Denise says
No, you only need to apply additional coats if coverage is not 100%. I’m guessing if you paint a black over your already dark paint with an good quality paint, one coat may do it.
Ewa says
Hi. I bought a chalk oaint for my kitchen cabinets in new house and noticed that there is a laminet 🙁 It looks like wood…tha laminate is matt and good condition. Can I still paint witch chalk paint? Do I need sanding and than this primer as well before paint? thanks
Denise says
Ewa, try a small test area in an inconspicuous area. Once the paint has dried overnight, scrape your fingernail over it to see if your chalk paint has adhered. If not, you know a light sanding is required. DIY Chalkpaint adheres really well, so a primer is probably not needed but depending on the color you choose and the coverage, some people like to add this extra step on high traffic kitchen cabinets.
Ben says
I have done a lot of reading about painting furniture with a veneer top, so the other day I started to sand the piece I want to paint. After sanding with a fine grit sandpaper like all the blogs had suggested, I felt no difference in the surface and it still is slick. I know all I want to do is rough the surface up a bit so the primer will adhere to it. Is that a mind trick or do I need to sand it more?
Denise says
Kind of a mind trick because I think many people are under the impression that a lot more sanding is required than is actually needed. I like to use my 220 grit sandpaper and wipe the entire surface (in the direction of the grain) as if I’m cleaning my kitchen counter tops. {best analogy I can think of right now} I can go over it a few times, but it still won’t look ‘sanded’. Instead it scruffs up the surface just enough to give it “tooth” for the primer to adhere nicely. Hope this is helpful Ben. 🙂
tara naughton says
.can I use all in one paint and primer over laminate or Vaneer furniture?
Dennise says
Denise,
I have a dresser that is laminate on the body and the drawers are a plastic/resin material. What do I do about them if I want to paint a chalk paint?
Thanks!
Denise says
To be on the safe side I would give it a light sanding. It only takes a few minutes to take a 220 grit paper and wipe the drawers as if you’re wiping a counter top. This will ensure your paint has some tooth to stick to Dennise. I like your name btw 😉
Rebecca Dotson says
I have a super high gloss factory finish on a dresser I need to redo for a client, like you can see your reflection in it. Ive been told sanding was bad and it can ruin it. Ive read about deglossers but ive never used them before. I was just curious what is the best route to take.
Denise says
Rebecca, I have a deglosser sitting in my inventory that I have yet to try, but supposedly, they work very nicely. This dresser I worked on has a super high gloss factory finish. What I did was give it a light sanding with 220 grit and then applied B.I.N primer. This particular primer states it can adhere to glass, tiles etc. After priming, I sanded again and then sprayed with General Finishes paint. Hope this is helpful and good luck on your project.
Heather says
Hi, thanks for the info! One specific question: I’ve scoured Home Depot’s primers for “super adhesion,” or just “adhesion” & “for shiny surfaces,” but none of the Kilz or Zinsser products say either of those things, only “stain blocking.” Now the Home Depot guy is telling me Behr and some other brand not mentioned on any sites.
Which specific brand and type of primer do you use? Zissner 1-2-3, Kilz Original, etc.?
I’m standing here in the aisle completely confused.
Thanks!
Denise says
Heather, I used B.I.N Shellac Based Primer by Zinsser. Great primer because it has super adhesion for laminate/shiny surfaces. On the label it says-adheres to shiny surfaces including tiles…haven’t tried it on tiles though! Also the shellac base covers any tannin or stains that may appear when painting with white or light colors.
Dawna says
I had great success using a DIY chalk paint on an old wood teachers desk recently. I believed everything I read about chalk paint covering any surface, so I decided to use it on the other desk in my office which was a dark laminate. I gave the entire desk a light sanding and wiped it off. At first it seemed to be covering fine but on other areas the paint ‘separated’ after a few minutes and looked like lace, with the dark laminate showing thru in patches. I stopped, waited a day and gave just one section a second coat hoping it would adhere properly. The next day I could scratch the paint off with my fingernail!! I decided to test paint a shelf with some acrylic melamine I had just to see if there was anything that would stick to the laminate (and I assumed melamine would stick to anything!) But it peels off as well. My ‘up-cycle’ project has turned into a nightmare and I think the desk will go to the dump. Note to self: only paint real wood products!
Denise says
How disappointing Dawna… been there so I know how it feels! I had a sewing table I sanded (but didn’t clean w TSP like I usually do) and the exact same thing happened. I guess there was some sort of residue on certain areas that was not allowing my paint to adhere. That sewing table is still sitting ‘unfinished’ in my inventory. And I’m going to leave it there until I get up the gumption to give it another go!
Kyra says
I have been doing a lot of youtubing and browsing the net & Pinterest and I came across your page. Great info and beautiful work 😉 I have an old record player I plan to use as a media console but the surface area laminate is chipping at the corners. I was wandering if I can still lightly sand and paint? Will the chips continue? Will adding a primer layer before painting help at all? This is going to be my first time doing anything like this any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Kyra-
Denise says
Kyra, unfortunately paint or primer will not stop chipping of MDF, Particle Board, laminate surface or veneer. Without seeing your console it’s hard to say, but it sounds like either wood putty or bondo may be beneficial to filling in the corners prior to painting.
Mia says
Great post! I have a question regarding the waxing how many coats did you do and is there a difference between using wax and using a product like polycrylic? Will it give the same end result? Thank you
Denise says
Wax and Poly both protect nicely but for high traffic items I prefer Polycrylics/Polyurethanes. I just published a QTT on this very subject Mia.:) http://goo.gl/Lcbr8Z
Rayen says
Hi Denise
I would just like to know how to get the high gloss finish when painting laminates. I would like to paint my laminate high gloss white. To get the gloss effect would I just need to apply a clear sealant? Or paint an additional clear layer before sealing?
Denise says
Hi Rayen. To get a high-gloss finish when painting any type of surface, I would purchase a high-gloss paint and then seal/protect it with a high-gloss polyurethane (making sure it’s a non-yellowing poly if I’m painting white or any light color!). You can also use lacquers or shellacs for a glossy finish too.
denise says
Hi, I repainted my kitchen cabinets in a kaki color, so I wanted to paint my island the same color, my island is made of the laminite finish, no real wood at all, so I used a all in one paint and primer. Now the paint peels easily or comes off when you scratch it. Now I’m not sure if I should repaint it?
Denise says
A slick laminate finish is not hard to paint but it does require proper prep Denise… What a pretty name ;). Giving the laminate a light sanding to create tooth and then priming with a B.I.N or Kilz Primer for shiny surfaces is the full proof way. If your paint job is peeling, don’t repaint over the peeling paint because you will have the same problem. If you can sand off all the peeling paint and then re-paint, you’ll end up with a gorgeous finish. A little work but it will look like new!
becky peeples says
do i need to use an oil basee primer or not
Denise says
No Becky, oil based primer is not necessary.
Mismarple says
Hi Denise… love your work and especially this one. I am a little confused… In your instructions above, when using chalk paint you said NO primer needed and I have read many articles now about painting laminate surfaces and about half say to sand, half say not to. So ‘lightly’ sand? & no primer with say an ASCP? Thanks for sharing your wonderful experience & knowledge to us ‘wantabes’
Denise says
Thanks for the kind words Mismarple. 🙂 Yes, with laminate surfaces, I suggest a light sanding whether you’re using ‘regular’ paint or Chalk Paint. If using ASCP (or HMCP or any other brand), no primer is required.
Julie says
I want to try this for the first time, yours looks so pretty. What types of paint brushes or rollers did you use?
Denise says
Hi Julie! No roller. I used my 2.5″ Purdy Paint Brush for the latex and a small Dollar Store Brush for the drawers.
Kim Schoonveld Waters says
Hi Denise. I want to thank you for sharing all of your knowledge – such a lovely way to live your life! Your pieces are beautifully done and have inspired me to give chalk/mineral paint a try. I have the first coat on a chair drying now :).
Denise says
Thank you Kim… and I hope your project turns out gorgeous!
Terry Shaffer says
Hi. Wonderful piece. I just started painting furniture with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. Questions – how do you tell if a piece of furniture is laminate? And what type/brand is Cafe Au Lait? It’s a great color.
Thanks,
Terry
Denise says
Hi Terry! I recently published a post on the difference between laminate and veneer which you may find very helpful. https://salvagedinspirations.com/q-t-t-difference-between-veneer-laminate-furniture/ . The Cafe Au Lait is Behr brand however it is a Mistint I purchased at HomeDepot. I’m always amazed at the gorgeous colors they have sitting there for a fraction of the cost!
PENNI says
I have veneered kitchen cabinets that are peeling. Can I use a similar technique to paint them. I’m stuck because I don’t know how I will fix the cabinet doors. Each peeling has been caused by a coffee pot steam or water dripping, washing dishes, etc. I hope you have a solution and I love your work.
Thank you so much
Penni
Denise says
This exact method can be used to paint veneered kitchen cabinets Penni but you don’t want to put in all this work to paint over peeling/damaged veneer. To fix the cabinets, you can carefully peel off the damaged veneer and then use a Bondo to fill in the “missing” pieces. This will smooth everything out for easy painting. If you search this method on YouTube I’m sure you’ll find a few tutorials. And thank you… you just gave me a great idea for another blog post. 🙂
Tess S. says
Denise- Love this piece…. of course, I love all of your work! Very good information, though, as I didn’t know WHAT to do with laminate! 🙂 Thank you!
Tracy says
Hi Denise,
Another beautiful piece. Love the colors of this one. I have a question regarding the vertical carving on the white corner. The café au lait color is showing in the crevices under the white paint. How do you achieve this look as you can’t sand in the grooves. Do you paint café au lait in the grooves and then paint only the raised parts with white? When I distress, I sand the raised parts & those become dark (color of original wood), with white left in the crevices. Your way seems to be the reverse. Sorry if I seem daft but would really appreciate clarification on this method. Would really like to try this.
Thanks,
Tracy
Denise says
Good question Tracy but I didn’t do anything fancy…lol. The Dove White HMCP was painted onto the sanded dresser (no primer) and then I lightly sanded/distressed those areas. The natural wood/laminate showed through. It was just sheer luck that the distressing matched up with the café au lait paint color.