An easy step by step stencil embossing tutorial on how to add gorgeous textured detail on your painted furniture.
Hi friends, I hope your week is off to a great start! Do you believe the saying “too much of a good thing”? Due to the lack of space in my home and garage, I believe it wholeheartedly. The ReStore was having a 50% blow out sale and I couldn’t resist even though I’m trying to cut down on my furniture purchases.
I started the year out great. I was focusing on cleaning up my inventory and actually cleared some space. But I have a realllllly hard time when I see pieces that inspire me…. or are 50% off… or are free. Or, or or…
Which brings me to this china cabinet makeover.
When I saw the flat surface doors I thought of stencil texture or stencil embossing. I’ve restyled a few pieces with raised stencils. I’ll include the links at the bottom of this post for you. The difference with this piece – I used a VERY large pattern on the drawer and doors and tried a totally different stenciling medium.
Here’s how it all turned out. What do you think?
It reminds me of a rich victorian demask vintage wallpaper. Something you’d see on the walls of an 1800’s castle!
THIS POST IS SPONSORED/CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS TO PRODUCTS I USE. YOU CAN SEE MY FULL DISCLOSURE HERE.
STEP BY STEP STENCIL EMBOSSING::
Like with any technique, there’s more than one way to do this. There really is no right or wrong as long as you get the results you like. Here are the steps I took to get this look.
The very first step to create this look was to clean this cabinet and then paint the base color. I chose this Rustic Red for the cabinet and then added warm highlights with this Copper Patina Paint. Doesn’t look great yet but wait for it. I’ve learned you have to be patient with the process. 😉
2:: PICK A STENCIL DESIGN YOU LIKE
To cover the flat surfaces on this china cabinet, I used ReDesign with Primas Diamond Grunge Stencil. It’s a large heavy duty stencil with some depth to it – specifically for creating a raised design.
Finding a great stencil design you love (regardless of size) is a great investment. I find the designs I like I use over and over again. I also love that the look can be easily changed by using different mediums with the stencil… like paint, decor wax, or mud for instance. Or even just using a small portion of the stencil gives it an entirely new look.
3:: PICK YOUR STENCIL MEDIUM
In the past, I’ve used Artisan Enhancements VP Antico for my medium. I’ve also used DAP DryDex Spackle with the pink dry time indicator which works great. Other mediums which also work are Joint Compound, Gel Medium, Embossing Cream, Decorative Cement Mix and Texture Paste just to name a few.
This time I tried something totally new which Dixie Belle sent my way. Dixie Belle Mud in White.
4:: SECURE STENCIL AND ADD MUD
This stencil was SO large that it overlapped my doors which didn’t make it easy to tape down flat. In fact, I couldn’t make it totally flat so I held down the areas I was working on while adding the mud with a putty knife. I used this metal putty knife I had on hand but I’ve added these plastic ones to the supply list because they are a much safer choice. Plastic ensures you won’t scratch your paint or stencil.
Here you can see that the design isn’t perfect because it wasn’t laying 100% flat. I’m totally okay with that because once it gets painted and glazed, some imperfections will add to the character.
This DB Mud took a good few hours to dry. I checked it after 2 hours and it still didn’t feel dry. My total dry time was 4 hours but that could be because I applied it rather thick. I’ve seen other furniture painters using this for repairs so I used in to patch up some veneer on the very bottom of this piece. Unless the repair is a minor ding, I’ll be sticking with my heavy duty Bondo.
5:: SAND EMBOSSED STENCIL
After the Mud was 100% dry, I used a 220 grit sandpaper to sand the design. This is to even out the odd peaks and valleys of the embossed design. I find this DB Mud sands down to a super fine powder very easily so make sure you don’t over sand and lose the raised effect. While I was sanding, I gave the entire piece a light sanding before adding the last coat.
6:: PAINT AND GLAZE
For the last few steps, I added another coat of Rustic Red to the cabinet. Two coats were required to cover the white stenciling medium on the drawer and doors. After the paint was dry, I used GF VanDyke Brown Glaze to create all that vintage patina. I have a full tutorial on How To Glaze here.
I would have used the same brand line but I didn’t have anything dark enough in Dixie Belle Glazes. A question I get asked a lot is if you can mix product lines. YES! You sure can! Just make sure they are compatible – water-based to water-based for example.
7:: TOPCOAT | PROTECT
The last step will be to topcoat this piece. I was running behind on this makeover so I still have to do that. I’ll be using a clear wax seeing as it’s already out of my shop and I don’t want to lug it back down to be sprayed.
I always have a hard time photographing a piece with glass. It seems like unless you’re in an empty room with no windows, reflections are inevitable. If you have any tips for me (other than taking the glass right out!), feel free to chime in. 🙂
LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK OF THIS STENCIL EMBOSSED CHINA CABINET MAKEOVER… OR FEEL FREE TO ASK ANY QUESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE… I ALWAYS LOVE HEARING FROM YOU. 🌺
Happy furniture painting my friends!
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