IF YOU’RE WONDERING WHETHER TO WAX OR POLY YOUR FURNITURE, THIS POST WILL HELP YOU DECIDE WHICH IS THE BEST CHOICE FOR YOU!
Hello, my friends! A common question I get asked is Should I wax or poly? The conversations sound something like this: I’ve painted and/or stained a piece of furniture and it looks amazing… now what? How do I protect my restyled piece? What’s the most durable topcoat? Will wax hold up under heavy-duty use or extreme weather conditions?
Joni recently asked –
“I just love seeing how beautifully you work! I haven’t gone through all the pages on your website yet, so you may have already covered this, but if not, I would be terribly interested in different ways of *finishing* a project. Sometimes I see you use wax, sometimes a clear coat, sometimes you mention a sealer … and I’m completely ignorant about ALL of those different options. I’m getting the painting part down – it’s the finishing that has me stumped!”
Here’s an email I recently received from Lisa –
“Thanks for all you do. I would love to paint this table and chairs, and I’ve been reading on your blog different ways to go about it. I have 3 small boys and there is no point in buying a nice table because they will destroy it.
I have painted dressers with chalk paint before so I’m leaning towards spraying the table and chairs with that. But I feel like the wax will not give enough protection. This kitchen table will be spilled on, banged on, and sprayed and wiped with Lysol at least once a day.
Is there a top coat that will give it the protection it needs from every single day big family use? Or is this wishful thinking? Any help is MUCH appreciated.
Thanks, Lisa
My Response:
Hi there Lisa! For high-traffic tables and chairs, I like to use a non-yellowing Polycrylic topcoat. Many water-based brands are easy to work with and environmentally friendly.
A few of my favorites are Dixie Belle Water-Based Topcoats, Gator Hide, Varathane, Minwax, and General Finishes. All of these brands come in flat, semi, or gloss sheen.
Poly sealer/topcoat will ensure your high-traffic furniture is protected because it cures to a super hard finish. Seals to prevent dirt, grease, scratches, stains etc. It’s also easier to clean… great for your boys. 😉
Have fun with your project and enjoy your week.
Denise
Don’t let this email to Lisa give you the impression that I don’t use wax. I DO! And I use A LOT of IT – on MANY if not the majority of my chalk-painted and milk-painted pieces!
Here’s MY take on using wax or poly:
With the popularity of chalk and milk-painted furniture, wax has become a SUPER POPULAR topcoat. Why? Because both chalk and milk-painted furniture is porous in nature – wax easily absorbs into the surface. When the wax hardens, it seals the painted surface with a lovely natural-looking soft sheen. The sheen can then be controlled by additional buffing. And some gorgeous effects can be created by using dark wax, white wax, or metallic wax finishes!
Having said this, my preference for HIGH TRAFFIC items such as dining sets, children’s furniture, or even kitchen/bathroom cabinets is a water-based POLYACRYLIC TOPCOAT.
I also prefer using poly products to seal latex/acrylic or enamel-painted pieces because they are NOT porous in nature!
The brand I use most often use is Gator Hide and this Satin Clear Coat because they are super durable and easy to use. But other brands that are easily found in HomeDepot and other hardware stores are Varathane Diamond Finish, Minwax Wipe-On Poly, and General Finishes High Performance Topcoat.
These polyacrylics and polyurethanes cure to a super hard finish and protect against grease, dirt, and stains. Also, a poly topcoat has a more forgiving cleaning process. Once fully cured, ‘regular’ cleaning products can be used, unlike waxed surfaces. For waxed pieces, a slightly damp cloth is recommended for cleaning – and depending on use, reapplication of the wax may be required a few years down the road.
With all the different brands and various opinions on wax and poly, it can be confusing on which topcoat to use on painted furniture. To keep things simple, I use wax on chalk-painted and milk-painted pieces (unless they are high-traffic items!) and poly products on everything else!
6 DIFFERENCES BETWEEN WAX AND POLY
- Natural vs Synthetic – Many furniture waxes are often made of more natural ingredients whereas oil base OR water-based polycrylics are made of synthetic materials.
- Application – Wax is rubbed on and then rubbed off with a soft lint-free cloth while poly is either brushed, rolled, sponged, or sprayed on.
- Finish – Wax gives a softer more subtle organic-looking sheen whereas poly looks more like a factory finish in flat, satin, or gloss.
- Protection – Wax is better suited for furniture that is NOT high traffic and poly topcoat is super durable and easy to clean. Great for dining and kitchen tables, nightstands, and coffee tables that will get a lot of use.
- Maintenance – Wax will need to be reapplied every year or so to keep looking good and protect your furniture. The benefits of poly last for years and years without reapplying.
- Touch Ups – It’s easier to touch up wax as a little bit of wax can be buffed into the affected area. Poly usually requires sanding down and reapplying to the entire surface.
10 BENEFITS TO USING A WAX TOPCOAT
- Wax enhances a wood’s natural finish if used on raw or stained wood.
- Wax helps prevent scratches, wear and tear, and sun damage.
- Wax creates a barrier that repels water and humidity on lower-traffic furniture.
- Dark wax or tinted wax can help cover up imperfections on your furniture.
- Wax requires less effort than say a varnish or shellac and rejuvenates with reapplication.
- Bee’s wax, carnauba wax, and water-based waxes are non-toxic and environmentally friendly.
- Wax can be used on painted, raw, and stained wood furniture.
- Wax can be stripped off and reapplied when your furniture needs a refresh.
- Once cured, wax is easily cleaned with a damp cloth.
- Any imperfections on furniture (such as water stains) can be ‘erased’ or touched up by applying more wax.
10 BENEFITS TO USING A WATER-BASED POLY
- Water-based polys are non-toxic and have low VOCs with little to no odor.
- Water-based polys are easy to apply and clean up.
- Water-based polys are non-yellowing unlike oil based that do amber over time.
- Easy to apply with a smooth consistency that reduces brush marks.
- Excellent durability for high-traffic furniture protecting from spills, scratches, stains, and everyday wear and tear.
- Can be applied with a brush, roller, sponge, or sprayer.
- Fast recoat time as it dries fast and can be layered quickly.
- Regular dusting and cleaning with a wet or soapy rag keep the furniture protected and clean.
- UV protection for furniture that is by a window or outdoors which reduces fading.
- Once the topcoat has cured, poly provides amazing protection on high-traffic furniture and is super easy to keep clean.
If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below! And please chime in with YOUR opinion(s) on using wax or poly. When you wax. When you poly. And why! As always, I love hearing from you and learn so much from your comments!
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8 years ago my husband made wooden pantry shelves. He sealed it with Miss Mustard Seed Furniture Wax. After 8 years of heavy use it definitely needs a new finish. Oil containers have left their mark and seeped into the wood which I scrubbed with baking soda. Would you suggest refinishing with wax again or doing the poly finish. If I do poly what would I need to do since it previously had a wax finish? And which poly would be best for pantry shelves?
The easiest solution would be to re-wax it. Wax cures really nicely but does need touching up now and again.
Great informative post. Pinned!
Thanks and thanks for the PIN Lizzy!💜
All great information but I did want to mention there are few truly “non yellowing” topcoat. Just finished a “non yellowing” polycrylic water based topcoat on Victorian Lace white which looked yellow when finished. Had to sand, repaint and apply Fusion clear coat.
Hi! Getting ready to paint a dining set. It’s gator hide all the way for top coat. What would be your go to for the paint? I’ve used chalk but I want durability. Before I start I would love your opinion. Thanks, Linda
If you decide to use Gator Hide as a topcoat (which a LOVE for high traffic furniture like dining and kitchen tables!!…my kitchen table takes a beating everyday and still looks awesome after years of use!) then it really doesn’t matter what paint you use. Chalk paint, mineral paint, latex paint, acrylic paint… any waterbased paint will work nicely. Hope this helps. 🙂
Hi Denise- First, I love your project blogs. They have helped me so much wirh projects I’ve worked on. With a top coat, I find that trying to apply is challenging to not see brush strokes or sponge marks. I’m wondering if the DB Clear Coat Satin could be applied with a roller? And, if so, would you use foam or microfiber? Many thanks!
Thanks so much Janice! Applying topcoat with a roller can be tricky… with any brand of topcoat. Depending on the roller, it can add in tiny air bubbles so be sure to use a high density foam roller. My friend Amy has a fabulous tutorial on how to apply the Satin Clear Coat with a roller here. Hope this helps!
I have a table that appears to be plaster of Paris. Bought it at an estate sale. It was UGLY! painted it with chalk paint and then glazed over it. Very ornate so plan on using some kind of spray top coat. May use this piece as a planter table. Should I use a matt or a gloss finish? I think it looks “French Country” style.
Hi Hazel! If it’s French Country Style, I would go for a matte or satin finish. Just my two cents!😊
Hi Denise,
I am currently working on a table and chairs refinish, (I think it’s oak) The chairs and base I have painted sherwin William
tricorn black, I am sanding the table top and wanted a raw wood finish. Have you come across any polys as a top coat that don’t change the color of the raw wood.
Thank you ,
Julie M .
Hi Denise,
I have a question- I just covered a ten drawer chest (wood) in thin cotton fabric. I used a home made mod podge to adhere it to the wood. I plan on sealing it with the same mod podge. So my question is – can I finish with wax? I have no kids in the house so no kiddies rough housing but I want to protect it from dirt and dust. Or could I spray on matt varnish and then add wax? I’m very new at all this and therefore I turn to you as I now how much experience you have with such matters. Thank you.
Hi Lisa! For maximum protection, a spray-on poly/varnish would be ideal. This makes it easy to wipe down, clean, dust, etc and will protect the fabric decoupage. That said, if you’re wanting to wax for a specific finish – for instance dark wax – white wax etc and you feel comfortable forgoing a little protection because it’s not a high traffic piece and no kiddies, once the wax is cured in 30+ days it should be fine. And yes, wax can be added over a spray topcoat once it’s 100% dry. 🙂
Hi!
I’ve just painted a small nightstand in a soft light cream colour.
I initially tried clear wax but it went blotchy. I removed it and repainted and then lightly sanded.
I then tried water based polycrylic but I made the colour turn to a dirty beige/dark cream colour which I didn’t like.
Any suggestions? I’m having such a hard time and don’t want to leave the paint raw.
Thank you.
I painted a cabinet with SW, exterior pain, as it will be sitting on my porch. I was going to wax over it with dark wax to make it look worn. I see you don’t recommend wax over latex. What can I use to get that worn look?
We used Sherwin Williams Harmony Eggshell white paint to restore a baby crib, changing table, and dresser. for our soon coming granddaughter There is little sheen and it seems unprotected. We’d like to use a green product to help protect and seal. Would the craft wax be sufficient? Thank you!
Hi! I just used chalk paint and folkart antique wax over it for a wood finish. Is this going to be enough to seal a kitchen table top or do you recommend to seal afterwards? Which is best to use?
Can I seal a lightly waxed table top? I’ve never used wax before and decided to try it on my huge kitchen table (cue panic attack)! It didn’t go as I planned. I tried to take some of it off with mineral spirits. I like what it looks like and want a strong seal on it, as it is used daily for my family of 7.
Do you know if it’s a water-based wax, Cassandra?
Have you use Dixie Belle’s Water Based Wax with their Clear Coat overtop? I’m wondering how well this combo would hold up on a kitchen table? Also, can I tint their waterbased wax with paint or stain like you mentioned in one of your posts?
Hi Carissa! yes and yes! And if you want SUPER durability, after applying your wax and clear coat, topcoat with Gator Hide. The clear coat gives the Gator Hide more ‘work time’ and they work very well together for super-strong protection and easy clean-up. Great for a high traffic kitchen table!
Hi there! I have just primed and painted a new wooden corner cabinet for my kitchen (new lumber that my husband built). I used Valspar semigloss interior The Perfect White paint 2 coats over three coats of primer. Because it’s specifically for baseboards and is semi-gloss, it’s got a nice sheen to it, but I’m afraid that it’ll get scuffed in the kitchen when ceramic bowls scrap across the shelves. What poly should I use ? Thanks, Kimberly
Hi:) I’m just wondering if it’s okay to use chalk paint over a previously waxed tabletop? And should I sand or do any prep first? Thanks for your advice!
Hi Carissa! If the wax is 100% cured, you can paint over it with chalk paint. That said, I like to take a 120 to 220 grit sandpaper and give it a light sanding before applying a new coat of paint. It only takes a couple of minutes and ensures your paint will stick. 🙂
Thank you! It’s an old kitchen table that my MIL painted black and waxed over 20 years ago. We really like the “worn in” look of it, but it’s too worn now and there’s too much light wood showing through. Because it’s previously waxed, would a dark wax overtop hold up on a kitchen table? Or can I glaze and poly overtop of 20 year old wax?
So I just painted a French door in eggshell. I was wondering can I wax it after?
Hi Rhonda! If it’s latex paint (in eggshell) you CAN wax but I feel a wax topcoat is best with chalk/mineral paints… paints that are more porous. I painted eggshell white on my French Doors and I didn’t topcoat with anything. They wipe down and clean just fine so I don’t think it’s a necessary step…just my 2 cents. 🙂
I wanted to use some white wax to bring out the natural wood grain in an unfinished table top. My question is, can I use a poly on top of that to seal it in? Or will the wax keep the poly from adhering properly?
Thank you 😊
Hi Kelley! Most brands of wax will prevent the poly from adhering. The only brand I know of that allows this method to work is Dixie Belle’s Water Based Wax and Clear Coat. Even then, waiting until the wax has cured is recommended.
Denise, your patience with all of our questions is astounding!
Thanks to you, I understand when and why to use the various sealers. My problem right now is that I painted a nightstand with Annie Sloan Napoleon Blue. I wanted this piece to be very smooth so I lightly sanded between coats. I was so happy that it came out smooth and darn near perfect. I started to seal it with General Finishes polycrylic and it smeared / streaked the blue paint! I repainted it and tried again, and got the same result.
I read that adding some water might help by slowing the dry time. It didn’t make any difference at all. It’s still streaked the paint. I’ve sealed other pieces with different water based sealer and didn’t have such a problem. I’m definitely going to have to paint the damn thing again. What do you think I could do differently?
Yikes, I know how frustrating and disappointing this can be! I love GF products but it doesn’t seem to be working for you so I would switch out to another waterbased topcoat which has worked really well for you in the past. A few I really like are Minwax, Varathane, Dixie Belle’s Gator Hide. Also, have you considered spraying the topcoat on? When I have a perfectly monotone smooth piece, I LOVE spraying because it finishes it off really nicely. If you don’t have a compressor/spray gun, a cost-effective alternative is this sprayer here. Perfect for paint or topcoats. Hope this helps and I’d love to hear how it turns out for you. Good luck. x
What paint sprayer do you use for your paint and topcoat?
I use this Husky here. I’ve had it for over 7 years and still works great. 🙂
I just painted my old 1/2 bath cabinet with regular acrylic paint & wonder what to seal them with. I don’t want to see brush strokes (like when I’ve brushed liquid polyurethane on before. Wax? liquid? brand?Suggestions appreciated. Regular ShWillimas cheap paint Thank you.
Hi Amelia! I first tried Gator Hide Poly in this post HERE and I’ve been using it on a regular basis ever since. I documented how easy it was to use with a brush or sponge. No brush marks and not only water-resistant but WATERPROOF! It might be a great choice for you if you’re worried about brush marks. Hope this helps.
Which poly should I use over General Finishes Milk Paint?
Hi Becky! If you like General Finishes products GF has amazing topcoats/poly. From gloss to their Flat Out Flat which I’ve used on a lot of my pieces. If you don’t want to go with the same brand, ANY water based poly will work over GF Milk Paint including the ones you can buy at Home Depot and Lowes. Minwax or Varathane for example. Hope this helps. 🙂
I’m thinking I’ll paint an outdoor chair with home made chalk paint. Will this be hardy enough for the outdoors, and which seal would you recommend? Many thanks,
Lee
Australia
I have painted outdoor furniture with chalk paint and an outdoor poly makes it super durable.
I just stained a simple pine dresser and am looking for a pet and baby safe alternative to poly. Is there a safe, non toxic alternative. The piece is not in a heavy use area, so i dont think i need something as strong as poly. Im more concerned about the toxic chemicals and smells! Thanks so much!
Hi Clara! I’ve been using this waterbased topcoat and it works amazing. Easy to use, no harsh smells or fumes, and once dry – super durable – waterproof – and easy to clean. Hope this helps.
I made a huge mistake in waxing my dining table.top. How can i fix this to make the surface more durable?
Just wipe it down with metho and do your polyurethane topcoat.
What is Metho?
Hi Danielle! “metho’ is a short form for methylated spirits like denatured alcohol for example. 🙂
Hi Denise – I have a 6 year old table that was finished with wax and now the wax is chipped in a few places and needs to be repaired. What should I use and how should I use it? This is my first foray into this. It’s a beautiful table and I’d like it to look great again! Thank you – Amy
Hi Amy! Are you sure it’s the wax that’s chipped? Wax often wears away but doesn’t usually chip….possibly this is a different topcoat – or maybe its the wood or veneer that is in need of repair. ???
It looks like the wax. Will it harm it to put a new pat of wax over it?
If it’s the wax, for sure. You can definitely wax over wax Amy. 🙂
Hi there, I just bought an antique rocking chair. I’m going to sand and paint it (and reupholster the seat) but what type of paint would you recommend? Also my biggest question is do you use paint brushes or spray it? I just don’t want brush lines 🙃
Thanks so much! Stacie
That’s a loaded question Stacie because it all depends on the look and style you like. Chalk or Mineral paint are a lot of peoples go-to.. or a good enamel like Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel is super durable. Spraying will give a more clean flawless look but you can also achieve a brush stroke free look while brushing on also. If you want some extra assurance on brush free look, there’s a product called Floetrol that you add to your paint. This extends the dry time and allows the paint to lay nicely.
Hi Denise,
I recently made a desk in the shape of an “L” so part of is used as my desk and the longer side is for my sewing/craft table! I have painted the top of the desk with an High Gloss Enamel paint! So what I was wondering is what I could put over the top of the painted part as a sealant to prevent chips or scratches? Any advice would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks
Hi Sally! A good enamel paint (100% cured) doesn’t really require a topcoat. I use Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel on furniture and it’s super durable. That said, you may want to double check with the manufacturer on whatever brand you used. Great project btw. 🙂
Hello! I am about to repaint my bedroom furniture. Some of the pieces (nightstand, vanity) do get pretty good use, and will have cups and things sitting on top. My question is, can I use a poly on the tops and wax on the drawers/legs? Or would you suggest using one medium for the whole piece? Thanks so much for your help!!
Yes! I’ve used poly on top and wax on the body plenty of times! Works GREAT!
I chalk painted a dresser for my daughters room and sealed it with wax, but I would like a poly top instead. Can I put the top coat right over the wax or do I need to sand it a bit?
Hi Amy! If you prefer a poly top, I would remove the wax with mineral spirits and/or a sanding, and then poly. For more info, I wrote a full article here. 🙂
Could we possibly use the HMCP on drywall ? Wondering if that was done ever
Hi Sajeev! Hmmm, not sure it’s ever been done before but I would recommend priming/sealing with a drywall primer before applying any type of paint.
Hi. I am refinishing an old church pew to use as an entryway bench. I sanded and am going to prime it, but would you recommend using a chalk paint or latex paint? And then should I use a wax or polycrylic finish? Thanks
Hi Cami! It really depends on what look you like better and also how much traffic this entry bench will be getting. If it’s high traffic (I’m assuming), chalk paint, enamel paint, or latex will work nicely but I would suggest a few coats of poly. Poly is easy to clean, super durable and won’t require any re-applying down the road. Hope this helps. 🙂
Hi, I just purchased a Thomas Hale dining table and chairs. The owner had the pamphlet which states the table top is lacquer finish. I have three little boys and don’t want a tablecloth. Is lacquer enough to keep the table from getting abused by spills, glue, paint, and whatever else? Or should I do some other finish, and can I put something right over top the lacquer?
Hi Angela! Lacquer is a super hard and durable finish. You should have no problem with high traffic day to day use. Enjoy your new dining table and chairs. 🙂
Hello there! So my wooden project is slightly out of the norm, its an Ashford Kiwi 2 spinning wheel. I do plan on staining and painting the main frame or it and painting the actual wheel itself since its made of MDF. I do plan on traveling with my wheel ane working with it outside when the weather is nice. What would be better tor it, Polyurethane or beeswax? The painted details will be in gold so I dont want to loose that glimmer but I don’t want the whole thing to be completly glossy either.
Thanks!
Hi Victoria! Either or will work nicely but because you mentioned you’ll be using it outdoors, poly (in flat or satin if you don’t want much sheen) would be a great choice. Tough, durable, easy to clean, and won’t need reapplying down the road. 🙂
I’ve started on my dining chairs with Annie Sloan chalk paint in graphite – followed by black wax to make it a true black. However, I don’t have 30 days to let wax cure!!! ( we need somewhere to sit LOL ) So, based on reading – you can add polycrylic over wax? Will it adhere to it? Thank you!!
Hi Mary! Poly over wax is not recommended. That said, you can sit on them (light use – be careful with belt buckles or sharp divots on jeans etc) once they are 100% dry. 🙂
Denise, one more question……noted on mineral paint dresser project (which is lovely) you cleaned with TSP prior to starting. I thought from read up that TSP is not to be used before a chalk paint application – is this right or wrong as perhaps its use could ensure a better end result for my next project. (I had just wiped down and and sanded my bedroom suite.) Thx. again.
There are some paints or primers that say right on the label “Do not use TSP” – B.I.N Shellac Primer being one example. So always reading the paint/primer label before you start is a great habit to get into. I’ve never heard/read TSP couldn’t be used before painting with Chalky Paints, and I’ve done it many times with no adverse effects. Buuuuut – here’s the thing. The TSP needs to be 100% ALL wiped off with a clean sponge or rag before painting! If any TSP is left on the furniture, the paint may not adhere properly. Just my 2¢, if your furniture isn’tdirty-grimy, I would opt for a milder cleaner.
Hi love your site for all the tips and was hoping you could provide some insight on my project issue. Just completed an approx. 1930’s bedroom suite (wood laminate) with my own homemade chalk paint (using calcium carbonate) as wanted a specific colour. I sanded the unit thoroughly and used Kilz Max water based primer sealer per HDepot recommendation (primer required due to bleed thru) for first 2 pieces and then switched to Zinser BIN shellac based primer for other pieces as seemed to be a better product. I applied 2 coats of chalk paint and then topped with 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic protector (sanding between coats) as per your recommendation for durability. (No distressing done/wanted.) Did accidentally nick just under the 30 day period but what surprised me is that when it did chip it took it off right down to the original piece finish. Trying to determine if this is just because of the short curing time or will I have a issue down the road? Just thought if it did chip the primer would stay attached.
Am concerned as am now doing a fairly new pine wood (with semi-gloss to satin dark finish) coffee table set which will have heavier use and want to ensure no chipping. Intended to do same process using shellac primer for bottoms and natural wood stained on the tops, Can you provide any guidance as to my process/outcome? Am trying to be very thorough to ensure good end result.
Hi Donna! Hmmm, I’m a little stumped because it sounds like you took all the right steps. I’m surprised all the layers came off. The only suggestions I can think of is allowing maximum time for the primer to dry (whatever the label states recoat time is) and then sanding between the primer and chalk paint – which is also really helpful to get the absolute smoothest finish. I’d love to hear how it turns out for you – or if you have any more issues with your set. It could be that due to temp/humidity ect, it just needs a little more cure time. Oh, one more tip, maybe try doing the scratch test on the primer before painting – then you’ll know its 100% adhered. Hope this helps. Great projects btw 🙂
Donna did the chipping occur on. a piece primed with the Kiltz or a piece primed with the BIN?
Hi Denise, I was really excited to come across your site and used your plaster of paris chalk paint recipe. However I have tried to seal it with furniture wax but it pulled off the chalk paint, and I also tried a clear lacquer spray over the top but it seemed to eat through the chalk paint. What would you recommend to put over homemade plaster of paris chalk paint to make it more durable without disturbing the chalk paint underneath?
Thank you so much!
Hi Jo! Wax should not be pulling up all your hard work. It sounds like there’s an issue with the paint not adhering properly ie maybe a slick or shiny surface that would have benefited from a light sanding before painting. As for the clear lacquer spray eating through the chalk paint, I’ve never experienced that so you’ve stumped me. ??? If anyone reading this has an explanation and fix for this, please chime in!
Hello Denise….. Have been following you for some time now and you inspire me to keep moving forward and have patience while perfecting my skills. You relove your pieces to perfection! I’ve currently finished a china hutch in custom mix of Annie Sloan old white and pure shite. The style is a very lightly distressed farmhouse. I want to keep that flat finish.. Today I purchased General Finishes flat top coat. Have you used that on a light color and will GF yellow?
Thank You for your time….. so appreciate you! Ruth
Hi Ruth! I have used GF Flat on top of this cabinet and yes, it did slightly yellow. It really depends on what you do to prep your piece and what type of surface your painting. For instance, if your china hutch is a bleedthrough type of wood or has any type of staining and was not sealed with shellac and/or primer before painting, the topcoat very well might pull staining through even if you don’t see any peeping through your paint prior to top coating. On the other hand, if there is no bleed through or staining, it could be perfectly fine. It’s hit or miss. I’ve ‘missed’ one too many times and got fed up so now, when I work with white paint, I always seal before painting so I don’t run into any trouble. I hope this is helpful Ruth.
Hi, I just painted my cabinets with a high gloss enamel paint (acrylic) by Behr. I love the way they came out! I want to protect them but am so scared to msss the glossy finish up and also scared of the possible yellowing. They were oak, and the paint is a shade of white. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Kim! I would suggest calling Home Depot (or wherever you bought the paint) and asking if it does require protecting. I use Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel and often enamel paints don’t need a top coat – which may be the case with the Behr brand.
My first experience with chalk paint, help! I am doing my daughter’s dining set. Put on a satin low gloss wax and think I need to apply a polyurethane also. Can I do that over the wax?
Not recommended Sally. I wrote an entire post on it here. Hope it helps.
Hi please help. I repainted my kitchen table and chairs with chalk paint it turned out awesome . For the kitchen table I put a water based polycrylic covering and it turned out great but for the chairs I did one cover of wax ,now when I sit on it I don’t like the feeling !! Am I able to put the polycrlic over that ? It is in the kitchen so I will have to clean them often. Am I stuck?
Hi Jen! I wouldn’t suggest putting the poly over your waxed chairs. Instead, there are a few ways I would go about this. 1) Lightly sand the wax off, apply another coat of paint and then poly. 2) Use mineral spirits in a well-ventilated area to remove the wax and then apply poly OR 3) if you’re using the same brand name say Annie Sloan CP w Annie Sloan Wax, simply apply a coat or two of AS paint over your wax, and then poly. Hope this helps. 🙂
Hi,
Thank you for this article, and I read some others about the topic too. (Actually I always read all of your articles.) Now I still feel uncertain about this questien, may I ask your opinion? So far I’ve painted smaller pieces of furnitures, but now I have a big project (a commission) to paint a whole bedroom furniture (5-door wardrobe, double bed, night stands, chest of drawers, dressing table with mirror, and chairs) with a lot of carved details. I just finished the wardrobe, and still couldn’t decide how to protect – wax or poly? If I choose wax, is there any method how to make it more durable? Like using several coats of wax? If yes, how much time should I wait in between wax layers? Do I need to buff each coat of wax before applying another coat of wax? Will it give enough protection? The bedroom will be used by adults, not children. But still, it will be in constant use. Unfortunately, living on a tiny island in the middle of the mediterranean, I can’t buy those brands you recommend of poly, and I have bad experiences with polys bought here…
Thank you very much for your help!!!
Adrienn
Hi Adrienn! Your tiny island home in the middle of the mediterranean sounds heavenly. 🙂 Great project btw. I’m currently working on my bedroom furniture too; and waxing my bedroom furniture has been perfectly fine. (no kids here either) I would use 2-3 coats of wax and buff in between. I like to wait 24 hours in between coats.
Thanks so much Denise!!! It’s so great to chat through the world with someone about our passions 😉
Hi I have chalk painted an old wash stand and have used wallpaper in some places can I wax this all over or do I need to seal the paper first
I recently used wallpaper on this night stand and waxed the painted wood but did not wax or seal the paper. I don’t really think the wallpaper needs sealing/top coating unless it is sitting on the top where it will get high traffic. And what might even be a better solution if that’s the case – a glass top to cover the decorative paper. 🙂
I am refinishing a church pew. I have sanded, painted it, distressed (via sanding), and then dark waxed it with Valspar Dark Satin Acrylic Satin Acrylic Antiquing Wax. I used a poly coat on top bc I wanted a bit more shine and better protection especially for a sitting area. The poly does not appear to have adhered well in all areas and looks “goopy” in others. I am new at this and am wondering if I need to completely start over or if I can somehow salvage what has been done? Thank you in advance!
Hi there! Glad to have found your blog- lots of useful info!
I chalk painted a breakfast nook set and waxed the table and freestanding bench. I haven’t finished the corner bench yet, but my question is: can I put a poly topcoat over my wax or do I have to first get the wax off my table and small bench first? If so, what can I use to get it off? Thanks!
I am refinishing a china cabinet. I have sanded, painted it, re sanded for a antique look, and then dark waxed it with Valspar Dark Satin Acrylic Satin Acrylic Antiquing Wax. What top coat should I use to make it durable? I am new at this, do I need to remove the wax? Thank you!!!!
I’ve used chalk paint in the past. This time I chose Annie Sloan in boot black for a high traffic piece. I have a quart of matte Minwax Polycrylic, but it always ends up showing brush strokes and has a semi gloss finish, which defeates the purpose of chalk paint!
My question, is there a “matte” polycyclic spray so I wouldn’t have to apply it w/ a brush? Also, what type of wax would I use to put on after the Poly? Just to ensure that soft, ultra matte look. Thanks so much! :^)
Yikes, over 300 comments and question between 7/18 and 11./18!! I too have similar questions and am a new member who has not yet started my formal dining room set project which I had practically giving up on until I read your blog. So all my concerns have been answered in this QTT blog.
But 1 more quick question, WHY ARE YOU NOT ON HGTV, or are you on a Canada TV network? Your talent is truly above and beyond so many DYI links and You Tube tutorials I have looked at over the past 8 months off and on.
From what I’ve read you do have a business in selling the items you have refinished. Unless it is BOOMING and you have absolutely no time for anything else, I would certainly look into it, unless you have tried before. Your work in “reincarnating” old pieces of furniture that as you’ve mentioned, folks are throwing away, is incredible, as I’m sure many of your followers would attest to. And, your talent in what you do, is comparable to Joanna Gaines talent in interior design, which I see you dabble in as well. Look what sending some of her videos to HGTV some years back has done for her & her husband Chip Gaines, they are multi-millionares. As I said if it were me, I’d send all of your tutorial to them yesterday…………Sorry to be a bit long winded on this, but I am so impressed by what you do, and feel you should be sharing your gift with as many others as possible. Aside from that you are CUTE and have a great sense of humor which is evident on your blog. There I’ve had my say;)
Marrrrrrry….lol…well, I’ve NEVER been compared to Joanna Gaines before and I’m just now starting to test the waters with video… so I’m guessing HGTV doesn’t want a total novice! I’m SUPER flattered tho! 🙂 But you know what the BEST part of your comment is and the part that truly touches my heart — that after reading my blog, you’re inspired enough to start your formal dining set. Thank you. That just made my day. XOXOX